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Kathmandu Patan and Bhaktapur

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October 2nd Patan, Bhaktapur, Kathmandu, Nepal

We left Kathmandu at a sensible time for a short 5km drive to Patan and for once the traffic was not too bad. Once a fiercely independent city-state, Patan is now a suburb of Kathmandu, separated only by murky Bagmati Rv. Many locals call the city by its original Sanskrit name Lalitpur (City of Beauty) or its Newari name, Yala. As we entered we saw one of the Ashoka Stupas which mark the four corners of Patan, symbols of the Buddhist Wheel of Righteousness (Dharma-Chakra). Located at Pulchowk, Lagankhel, Ebahi, Teta, these mounds are crowned with monuments by Ashoka, the Buddhist Emperor of India, erected 250 BC. Three mounds are covered in grass, the 4th (which we passed) is a white mound with a colourful monument. Parking near Durban Square we walked almost immediately into the pedestrianised area with our passes round our necks.
Patan is believed to have been founded in the 3rd century BC by the Kirat dynasty, expanded by Licchavis in the 6th century and again by the Mallas during the medieval period. There are many legends about its name. The most popular one is the legend of the God Rato Machhindranath, who was brought to the valley to overcome the drought. There was a strong belief that the God Rato Machhindranath would bring rain in the valley. It was due to Lalit's effort that the God Rato Machhindranath was settled in Lalitpur. Many believe that the name of the town is kept after his name Lalit and pur meaning township. Several historical records and many legends indicate that Patan is the oldest of all the cities of Kathmandu Valley. The city was initially designed in the shape of the Buddhist Dharma-Chakra (Wheel of Righteousness). The four thurs or mounds on the perimeter of Patan are ascribed around, one at each corner of its cardinal points, which are popularly known as Asoka Stupas.
Durbar Square: the ancient Royal Malla Palace of Patan faces onto magnificent Durbar Square. A mass of temples, and the most stunning display of Newari architecture in Nepal. Temple construction was mainly during the Malla period (14-18th centuries), especially in the reign of King Siddhinarsingh Malla (1619–60). We entered from the left (Taleju restaurant), with the octagonal Krishna Temple/Chyasim Deval to our immediate left and statues in front of Sundari Chowk to our right. The traditional gateway to Sundari Chowk features 3 magnificent statues of Hanuman (barely recognisable beneath layers of orange paint), Ganesh with his wife Riddhi and Vishnu as Narsingha/ Narasimha, the man-lion, tearing out the entrails of the demon Hiranyakashyap.
We went past the statues to enter the doorway to the palace via Mul Chowk. Behind the extravagant facade with overhanging eaves, carved windows and delicate wooden screens, are connecting courtyards and 3 temples dedicated to the valley’s main deity, goddess Taleju.
In Hindu mythology the goddess Taleju, or Taleju Bhavani, is the tutelary and wrathful form of the Goddess Durga. Durga is the embodiment of power and source of all other goddesses. She was created by the gods. While they were resting afterr fighting the demons, a demon, Mahishasura, took advantage of their absence to declare himself Lord of Heaven and Ruler of the Universe. On hearing this declaration Vishnu was outraged and “shot forth a terrible light from his forehead” and all the other gods joined in. The light beams converged and from the blazing eruption the Goddess Durga (Manesvari) emerged. Taleju has also been referred to as Kali, another form of Durga known for her destructive nature. In Kathmandu Valley Durga, in the form of Taleju, has a special place of worship in Newar society. In the three cities of Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur 5% of Nepal’s people live of which half are Newars. In this society the goddess Taleju is extremely important; she represents the political aspect of the society in
Kathmandu Valley. She is the most important deity, and the goddess to which all other goddesses pay homage. She is the tutelary goddess to the Nepalese Malla kings and the success, greatness, and prosperity of the kingdom is controlled by her. The Malla Kings used the Goddess Taleju to legitimise their rule and succession. The mantra of Taleju is a mark of the ruler’s succession and is very important to receive; if a ruler failed to receive the mantra, he was liable to lose his kingdom. When the Malla kingdoms were conquered by the Shah dynasty, the new king adopted Taleju as his new royal deity, in order to cement his legitimacy to the throne. The Kumari are another form of the Goddess Taleju and are young girls considered to be the human manifestation of the Goddess Taleju. The worshipping of the Goddess Taleju in the form of a young virgin, or Kumari, became a tradition in the Newar society and continues to this day. Many different girls can be worshipped as living Kumaris at the same time and there are three principal Kumaris in the three cities of Bhadgaon, Kathmandu, and Patan.
Bhairab gateway leads to central Mul Chowk courtyard. Inside is flanked by stone lions and colourful murals of Shiva in wrathful incarnation as Bhairab. displays inside highlighted the wood carving for which Patan is famous. Mul Chowk is the largest and oldest of palace’s 3 main chowk (squares). The original buildings, destroyed by fire in 1662, were rebuilt in 1665 by Srinivasa Malla. In the centre of the square is small gilded Bidyapith Temple. The central deity is Yantaju, a form of Durga, and personal deity of Malla kings.
Bhairav gate; Bhairav door, courtyard with Yantaju post, Bidyapith
Gateway between Mul and Sundari Chow (KK in centre); Bidyapith Temple x2

On the south side is Taleju Bhawani Temple, flanked by statues of river goddesses Ganga (Ganges), on a tortoise, and Jamuna, on a makara. The upper galleries have fine carved wooden struts. The interior courtyard had amazing architecture; carved wood everywhere from lintels to latticework, as well as a magnificent central royal “bath” called Tushahity. Tusha Hiti is the highlight of Sundari Chowk, a superbly carved sunken water tank for ritual regal ablutions. Built in 1647, the renovated tank has 72 carved stone plaques depicting Tantric deities. These (in Hinduism, as Buddhists have a slightly different list) are Bhairab/Bhairav (Shiva), Dakini (fierce female spirits), Dattatreya (a 3-headed, 6-handed amalgam of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu), Kubjika (a strong female), Matrikas (fearsome protective mother goddesses), Shiva, Uchchhista ganapati (a unisex fierce form of Ganesha), Barahi (aka Varahi, a mother goddess with a sow’s head, she is the shakti or female energy of Varaha, the boar avatar of Vishnu) and Yogini (female yoga). Tantric deities are depicted as ‘wrathful’, looking angry, but are not evil. Their function is as fierce protectors.
Tusha hiti x2, palace tower. Yanuma, palace door (between goddesses), Ganga.
After circling Mul Chowk, we went past the statues of Ganga and Jamuna, and through a low passage to access Sundari Chowk, equally impressively carved. At the NE corner is tall Degutalle Temple, topped by an octagonal triple-roofed tower. The larger, triple-roofed Taleju Temple is directly north, overlooking Durbar Square, and dedicated to Taleju, the protective deity of the Malla kings. The Royal Palace, which forms the whole east side of Durbar Square, was a 14th Century Royal Palace, expanded in the 17/18th century by Siddhi Narsingh (Narasimha) Malla, Srinivasa Malla, and Vishnu Malla. Some scholars put the origins of Patan Durbar Square back to just after the Licchavi era ended in 879 AD when the Thakuri kings ruled parts of Nepal. The evidence is sparse but it is believed a royal palace of some kind was in Patan Durbar Square at that time. The Pradhana caste are believed to have been associated with the square just before the more famous Malla kings rose to power, but it is in the 1600s during the Malla period that Patan Durbar square truly rose to fame. Patan palace predates Kathmandu and Bhaktapur and is an architectural highlight of Nepal.
Architectural details of the palace; Bhandarkhal hiti
On our way out we noted the recently restored Bhandarkhal water tank, once the main palace water supply, charming meditation pavilion. As we left to return to Mul Chowk we could see Taleju Mandir (behind left) and tall Degutale Temple (behind right), topped by octagonal triple-roofed tower. The larger, triple-roofed Taleju Temple is directly north, looking over Durbar Sq, dedicated to Taleju, protective deity of Malla kings.
On exiting we came back through Mul Chowk into the main part of Durbar Square. Directly in front of us were several important buildings. These were Chyasim Deval aka the Krishna Temple, the Taleju Bell and the Harishankar Temple.
Chyasim Deval Krishna Temple was built in 1637-47 by Siddhi Narasimha. Like its Krishna counterpart to the north, it is built in the shikara style, imported from India. However it is almost totally intact and modest restoration only, now complete, was needed. The attractive octagonal solid granite temple is worthy of a walk around as it is one of the square’s best examples of solid stone temples. Do note the two stone lion guardians at the bottom of the platform steps leading to the first floor. Inside here is the statue to Krishna. Two stone floors above have unique balconies.
Taleju Bell: Facing the palace is a huge, ancient cast iron bell between two pillars by King Vishnu Malla in 1736. Petitioners rang the bell to alert the king. Mounted between two stone pillars it was rumoured to terrify the king’s enemies when it was rung. More likely it was used to signal incoming invaders and later city announcements. Close to it is Hari Shankar Temple, a 3-storey temple to Hari Shankar, a hybrid deity with attributes of both Vishnu and Shiva. Although this sounds odd to us, amalgam deities are not especially unusual in Hinduism (or for that matter in Buddhism and Jainism). Think perhaps of Christians Holy Trinity of God as father, son and spirit, and it’s not such a different concept.
The roof struts (now inside Sundari Chowk where we saw them being conserved) show carved scenes of the torture of the damned. The temple was built in 1704 by Yogamati, the daughter of King Yoganarendra Malla. Although almost destroyed in 2015, the restoration work is going well. We particularly liked the 2 stone guardian elephants standing in front.
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Chyasim Deval; Vishwanath (foreground) and Bhimsen Temples; Taleju Bell; Harishankar Temple (closed for restoration)
Also on the left were two statues on huge pillars, the column of King Yogendra Malla (1685-1704), and the column to Narasimha, the 4th avatar of Vishnu, who incarnates in the form of part lion and part man to destroy evil and end religious persecution and calamity on Earth, thereby restoring Dharma. His Large Vishnu Temple was just behind. Next to it was the tiny Small Vishnu Temple. People all over Nepal grow up believing that Vishnu is the source of all beings and is the ultimate form of benevolence. Vishnu works relentlessly for the welfare of all beings and in doing so takes various forms or incarnations (avatars). The general belief is that Vishnu has so far taken nine avatars, in chronological order are Matsya, Kurma, Varaha, Narasimha, Vamana, Parasuram, Rama, Krishna and Buddha.
Malla Statue with temple roofs behind; Malla statue with Large Vishnu Temple; statue Narasimha; Taleju temple
The tenth that is yet to come is Kalki. The Narasimha incarnation is based on the legend that a demon king called Hiranya Kashaypu was granted a boon by the gods in return for his long and hard penance. It ensured that he could not be killed during the day or at night, on land nor in the air, nor with any weapon. Furthermore, no man or beast could kill him. Protected by invincibility, he began a reign of terror. Prahlad, the king’s son, happened to be a devotee of Vishnu and with deep faith and prayers, began to challenge his father. The king asked his son where Vishnu was, so he could fight him. patan-museum_50109155782_o.jpgThe son waited till the sun was about to set and took the opportunity to reply that Vishnu was everywhere and in everything. The furious king struck a nearby stone pillar with his sword. Vishnu leapt out of the pillar in the form that was partially god, man and lion - Narasimha. He took the king on his knee, halfway between earth and sky, and disemboweled the demon king with his lion claws, just when it was twilight, neither day nor night.
Large (behind) and Small (foreground) Vishnu Temples; Keshav Narayan Temple in Keshav Narayan Courtyard (now the museum
building); exhibits from Patan museum

The larger Jagan Narayan Temple next door was almost flattened in 2015. This major temple was once the oldest in the square, built in 1566. It used to be used for political speeches.
From here we had an excellent view of the Golden Gate (Sun Dhoka) 1734, an engraved and gilded gate topped by a golden torana showing Shiva, Parvati, Ganesh, and Kumar (an incarnation of Skanda, god of war). Directly above the gateway is a window of gold foil wrapped around a timber frame, where the king once made public appearances.
Golden Gate and Balcony
This part of the palace was rebuilt after conquest of the valley by Prithvi Narayan Shah 1768, and the 1934 quake. Walking into the north courtyard gave us access to Patan Museum in the section of palace surrounding Keshav Narayan Chowk. This houses one of the best collections of religious art in Asia, an invaluable introduction to the art, symbolism and architecture of Nepal. The collection is displayed in a series of brick and timber rooms, linked by steep/ narrow stairs. Information on each statue, carving, votive object, allows you to put a name the many deities at temples. Interesting displays on techniques, inc repoussé and lost-wax casting. For highlights www.asianart.com/patan-museum. We spent quite a while in here and it was indeed very interesting.
Royal throne of patan; Manga hiti
Coming out we continued past Manga Hiti on our right (remarkably still in use today for locals to bathe and fetch water), to Mani Mandap, and opposite to some excellent Newari wooden houses. Manga Hiti, one of the water conduits with which Patan is liberally endowed, is a cruciform-shaped pool and 3 wonderfully carved dhara (water spouts) in the shape of makara (mythical crocodile-elephants). Heading back we first came to Bhimsen Temple, dedicated to the Newari god of trade and business, and has a prosperous appearance. It was built in 1680 when all three Malla kingdoms were at peace. One of 5 Pandavas from the Mahabharata, Bhimsen is credited with superhuman strength, and is often shown as a red muscleman, lifting a horse or crushing an elephant under his knee. This 3-storey pagoda with unusual rectangular plan is unlike other temples in Patan. Current temple rebuilt 1682 fire, 1934, 2015 earthquakes. Once repairs are complete, non-Hindus should again be able to climb to the upper level (the inner sanctum is upstairs in Bhimsen temples) to view wild-eyed statue of Bhimsen. In front is a ritual fire pit and tall pillar. Next came the larger Vishwanath temple. Vishwanath is a manifestation of Shiva. The 2-tier pagoda temple was built between 1676-78 during a time when King Siddhi Narsingh witnessed the moguls destroy the Vishwanath Temple in Banaras. Today you can view two stone riders on elephants. On west side statue of Shiva’s loyal mount, Nandi, on east 2 stone elephants with mahouts, one crushing a man beneath its foot. When doors open, view the enormous lingam inside. Opposite it is a beautiful Garuda mounted on a column. Next was Krishna Mandir. One of the most remarkable stone temples ever built only took six and a half short years to construct it in 1637. This elaborate temple is dedicated to Krishna and was built by King Siddhinarsingh Malla. Constructed from carved stone, rather than the usual brick and timber, the fabulous architecture was influenced by Indian temple design and is the earliest stone temple in Nepal. The distinctive temple is often depicted on the ornate brass butter lamps hung in Nepali homes. The temple stayed intact from the 2015 earthquake. The temple consists of 3 tiers, fronted by columns and supporting a north Indian–style shikhara. Non-Hindus cannot enter to view the statue of Krishna the goatherd, but you can hear temple musicians playing upstairs. Vishnu’s mount, the man-bird Garuda, kneels with folded arms on top of a column facing the temple. The delicate stone carvings along the beam on the 1st floor recount events from the Mahabharata, while the hard-to-see beam on the 2nd floor features scenes from the Ramayana. The Festival Krishna Jayanta (Krishnasthami) is held here in Nepali month Bhadra (Aug/Sept) for Krishna’s birthday.
Krishna Mandir (with Viswanath behind); Ganesha Temple (north end); Bhai Dega (great vantage point for our photos)
When we got back to the entrance we crossed the road and climbed up a ruined building for a birds eye view of the whole square. Steve bought a little prayer wheel, cheap but good quality.

As we left by car (having been well and truly blocked in and grabbed by a beggar woman) we passed some other interesting buildings. Mahaboudha Temple (Temple of 1000 Buddhas) is modelled after Bodhgaya, India, where Buddha reached enlightenment. Each tile bears the image of Buddha. Built by a priest, Abhaya Raj, in 1585, it was felled by the 1934 earthquake but rebuilt in Indian shikhara style. Next to it Rudra Varna Mahavihar (Ukubahal) Buddhist monastery with temple and courtyard has fine wood, bronze and stone statues. Kings were crowned in this temple in ancient times. The courtyard is jam-packed with statues and metalwork; dorje (thunderbolts), bells, peacocks, elephants, Garudas, goats, kneeling devotees, a Rana general and a pair of Victorian-style British lions that look like they came straight from Trafalgar Square. Golden Temple (Kwa Bahal / Hiranya Varna Mahabihar) was untouched by the earthquake. This unique Buddhist monastery was founded 12th century, and its current form dates to 1409. The temple name is from the gilded metal plates that cover its front, the most beautiful in Patan. Tortoises, the temple’s guardians, potter around the compound. From the east, note the gaudy lions and 1886 signature of Krishnabir, the master stonemason who sculpted the doorway with its frieze of Buddhist deities. A second doorway leads to the main courtyard of the Golden Temple. The main temple priest is a boy under 12, who serves for 30 days before handing the job over to another boy. Two elephant statues guard the doorway and the facade is covered by gleaming Buddhist figures. Inside the main shrine is a beautiful statue of Sakyamuni. Kumbheshwor Temple; 300m north of Golden Temple, is one of two 5-tier temples in Nepal, built by Jayast Hiti Malla in 1391. Two ponds are believed to contain water directly from the holy lake Gosainkunda north of Kathmandu Valley (as we flew over returning from Tibet). Tall, thin mandir (temple) features artistic woodcarving, and seems to defy gravity as it towers above the surrounding houses. Amazingly, this precarious structure survived the earthquake, though the tower now leans slightly. A large Nandi statue and central lingam indicate the shrine is sacred to Shiva. Surrounding square dotted with temples to Bhairab and Baglamukhi (Parvati).
Just outside Patan marketplace we saw Rato (Red) Machhi/endranath Temple to the god of rain and plenty. Down an alley, a white columned gateway leads to open square with Rato Temple. Temple, which like many in Nepal, blurs line between Buddhism and Hinduism.
Buddhists regard Rato Machhendranath as an incarnation of Avalokiteshvara, Hindus see him as an incarnation of Shiva. Tthe towering 3-storey temple dates from 1673, but a temple has been on this site since 1408. Four ornate doorways are guarded by stone snow lions and
at ground level the four corner plinths have yeti-like demons known as kyah. Mounted on freestanding pillars at the front is a collection of metal animals, a peacock, Garuda, horse, buffalo, lion, elephant, fish, snake. Look up to see richly painted roof struts showing Machhendranath standing above figures being tortured in hell.

Bhaktapur We drove 12 km along the Kathmandu Valley to arrive at the much quieter Bhaktapur. The old part of the city is forbidden to traffic, so we were able to walk up the hill in safety to a restaurant, the Boudha Stupa rooftop restaurant of Hotel Sweet Home http://www.sweethomebhaktapur.com/. We sat on the roof to enjoy the view while eating lunch. Not only did we have a good view of the old city, but in the distance we could see the faint outline of the mountains from Mt Kanchenjunga in the east to the Annapurna Massif in the west. Naturally we finished with the famous juju dhau or Kings curd, a sort of sweeten yoghurt.

Bhaktapur http://bhaktapurmun.gov.np is the best medieval city in Kathmandu Valley. It has narrow stone streets, red brick houses, and hidden temples, boasting the best religious architecture in the area. In fact, there are more temples per foot in Bhaktapur than Kathmandu or Patan. Bhaktapur (भक्तपुर) means "city of devotees" in Nepali, although it can also be translated as "Ancient Newari Town." Other names are Bhadgaon or Khwopa (Newari: ख्वप Khwopa). Founded in the 12th century by King Ananda Malla, Bhaktapur rose to be a city renowned for culture, crafts and
trading due to its position on the ancient trading route from India to Tibet. Bhaktapur's old city is in four main areas. The most famous is Bhaktapur Durbar Square, followed by Pottery Square, Taumadhi Square and the oldest square, Dyattraya. Bhaktapur was the largest of the 3 Newar kingdoms of Kathmandu Valley and capital of Nepal during the Malla Kingdom until the late 15th century. It’s population is majority Newar. Historically more isolated than the other two kingdoms, Kathmandu and Patan, Bhaktapur has a distinct form of Nepal Bhasa language. It has the best preserved palace courtyards and old city in Nepal. A Magnitude 7.8 earthquake on 25 April 2015 damaged 116 sites in the city; of which 67 were completely destroyed, and 49 damaged including Durbar square and Taleju Temple. Khwapa are masks believed to have been worn by gods/ goddesses and Bhaktapur is famous for mask dances based on the lives of these deities. Bhaktapur's approach to rebuilding has been different than the rest of Nepal. They have concentrated on repairing and rebuilding damaged temples one at a time (roughly). It meant faster repairs. Furthermore, as it's been community driven for funding there's been no waiting for national funding.
After a couple of Gourka beers we set off walking a 5 minute walk to the first part of the old square and Phasidega Temple (Fasidega, literally Pumpkin based on its distinctive, but now lost, roof) Temple. Sadly this Shivan temple was destroyed in 2015. However, the plinth with its 2 guardian elephants, 2 guardian lions and 2 cows, all in beautiful condition. In front were the famous Stone Lions and a Siddhi Laxmi Temple. This 17th century stone temple was badly damaged in the earthquake, but has pretty much now been restored. Stone guardians protect the temple. In pairs they appear on either side of the central staircase on surrounding platforms leading to the small shikhara style temple at the top. What's interesting here is that you will notice that the first pair of male and female human guardians are each holding a child by the hand and a dog on a leash. The children seem to be sheltering slightly while the dogs look eager. The successive platforms have pairs of horses, rhinos, man-lions and camels made from the same pale stone as the rest of the temple.
Fasidega, Stone lions, Fasidega, Siddhi Laxmi, details Siddhi Laxmi steps
This then gave access to the main Durbar (Layaku) Square, filled with beautiful temples, buildings and carvings. Directly in front of us was the Vatsala (Batsala) Durga Temple, which contained the Taleju and Barking Dogs Bells. This was very badly damaged in the earthquake, but has been restored to quite a good point, so we could see it well. This stone temple was constructed by King Jagat Prakash Malla and based on the Krishna mandir in Patan (though much smaller). Vatsala is a sandstone temple dedicated to the goddess Vatsala Devi and includes many carvings. The 3-stepped based leads to a colonnade of 14 octagonal pillars (now re-erected), and 8 octagonal turrets in the form of mini temples (intact but on the ground in front) and 4 small pavilions.The whole structure is shikhara style and was topped with finials (amalakas, kalasha, trident), again on the ground ready for re-erection. It is most famous for its silver bell, known to local residents as "the bell of barking dogs" as when it was rung, dogs in the vicinity barked and howled. The colossal bell was hung by the last King, Ranjit Malla in 1737 AD and used to sound the daily curfew. It was rung every morning when goddess Taleju was worshipped. Despite the Temple being completely demolished by the 2015 Gorkha earthquake, the bell remains intact. In front of the temple is a the stone King Bhupatindra Malla's Column.
Malla Column; Pashupatinath exterior, detail and interior shrine.

The Statue of King Bhupatindra Malla in the act of worship facing the palace, is considered the most magnificent of the square’s many statues. On the other side was Pashupatinath Temple (Yaksheswor Mahadev), a ‘mini’ temple to Shiva, built according to a royal dream. The large two-roofed Pashupatinath temple was once part of the royal palace. Built in 1475 by by King Yaksha Malla as a respective replica of the main Pashupatinath temple in Kathmandu, it however looks nothing like it! Our guide, Keshav, took us towards this wooden building so we could see the wooden struts leading to the first roof up close. They were filled with erotic wooden carvings. These carvings here depict scenes that make the karma sutra seem quite amateurish! Included in all these is a water vessel being held under one person, but no one knows who! The carvings are even more visual than the erotic elephants near the main gates.
Then back to the other side of Vatsala Temple to see the small Chyasalin Mandap (Pavilion of Nine Corners).
Chyasalin, Bell, 55-window palace
Chyasalin is a small 2-storey wooden pavilion. Interestingly guidebooks often labelled it a temple, which is in fact incorrect. It is fact a pavilion. The temple which is in core small temple which was used incorrectly in the past and stuck. Chyasalin Pavilion was originally built in the 17th century Malla Kingdom. Its main purpose was to deflect a powerful ‘force’ coming from the nearby Shiva temple. It was later used as a meeting place, a platform to watch plays/ poetry and a tax office. In the 1934 earthquake Chyasalin was completely destroyed. It was restored during the 1980's. It survived the 2015 earthquake with no damage, due mainly to the decision to insert metal struts (lambasted at the time as inauthentic, but a building saver in the event). King Bhupatindra Malla originally had Chyasalin built to protect 55-window palace as local custom dictated that the Shiva temple had a powerful force emanating from it. Chyasalin pavilion was built with eight sides which means Chyasalin. This was done as it was thought that the octagonal sides would deflect the Shiva temples emanating force from hitting the palace. Chyasalin Mandap's most prominent claim to fame is recorded on a stone plinth beside it. The inscription tells of a poetry competition held there between Bhupatindra Malla and his court.
Although the Palace was right next to us we actually continued first around the square, passing the smaller Shiva Temple and heading to the Krishna/ Dwarka temple, with Badri (Badrinath) Temple (Badrinarayan) behind (both intact). The Krishna Temple houses 3 deities, Satyabhama, Krishna and Radha. Their stone images parade the city in November. Badrinath was one of the first temples restored, in 2016. It is believed that every Wednesday, Badri (a form of Vishnu) Narayana from Badrinath visits this place. So milk pudding (Sweet rice or payasam) is offered on this day. There is an unfinished stone carving of elephant which sweats occasionally when uncalled upheavals and disasters are going to happen in the valley. In front as a Garuda column.
This brought us to the Rameshwar/or Temple, now completely restored. This small temple is an open shrine topped by an ornate dome held up by four pillars. In Gum Baja style it is dedicated to Shiva. The name comes from Ram as an incarnation of Vishnu who built the original temple of Mahadev Rameshwar in South India. Attached to it is a small Gopi Nath/ Jagannath Temple, in 2-roof pagoda style it houses the deities of Balaram, Subhadra and Krishna. Like Rameshwor all repairs, which were minor, are complete.
Shiva temple (scaffolded), Krishna Dwarka Temple, Old Gate
We continued to the Old Town Entrance Gate (Khauma Dwaar), intact, and through to the Shiva Temple. The nearby Shiva Parvati Temple contains the iconic Erotic Elephants. This tiny double-roofed Shiva-Parvati Temple has erotic carvings on its struts, one of which shows a pair of copulating elephants, in the missionary position: Kisi (elephant) Kamasutra. Other animals in romantic state include tortoises, horses and what looks like two llamas!
Re-entering through the entrance gate, aka Lion Gate, we learnt the sad story of the artisans whose hands were said to have been severed
upon completion by the envious Bhadgoun king so that no more of such masterpieces(specifically the 2 lion statues, now moved to outside the Phasidega Temple where we saw them earlier) could be reproduced. Outside the palace buildings, now to our left, were two famous statues, to Ugrachandi Devi and (Ugra)Bharib in Basantapur Chowk.
bhairab-chowk-bhaktapur_50108377278_o.jpgTo the left is the goddess Ugrachandi Devi and to the right is Bharib (a form of Shiva) who features heavily in the Kathmandu Valley. King Bhupatindra Malla commissioned the Ugrachandi sculpture in 1707. It is said that the king was so besotted with the sculpture that he ordered the artists hand to cut off so it could never be duplicated by another king. The sculptor continued to work and made the Bharib sculpture. Sadly after this the king ordered his other hand to be removed! The reasons behind this are that there was a great rivalry between the kings of the valley to have the greatest works of art in their cities. The pair of multiple-armed statues of the terrible god Ugrabhairab and his counterpart Ugrachandi, are the fearsome manifestations of Shiva and his consort Parvati. Ugrachandi has 18 arms holding weapons, and she is in the position of casually killing a Buffalo demon. Bhairab has 12 arms and both god and goddess are garlanded with necklaces of human heads.

This brought us back to the Palace of Fifty-five Windows, a masterpiece of wood carving. We admired the world famous Golden Gate, one of the most intricate and well decorated gates in the world. The 55-Window Palace was the royal seat to 1769, and has elaborate carved windows and doors. Part is now the National Art Gallery.
Key to plan (italics are ruined or destroyed)
1.West Gate 2.Jagannatha tirtha 3.Rameshvara tirtha 4.Kedamatha tirtha 5.Badrinatha tirtha 6.Basanpur pavilion 7.Bhandarkhal +well
8.Shiva 9.Kumari Chowk 10.Malatai Chowk 11.Mul Chowk/Taleju temple 12.Thanthu durbar 13.Golden fountain 14.Bhairava Chowk
15.Golden gate 16.Malla column 17.Taleju Bell 18.Vatsala temple 19.Yaksheshvara temple 20.Octagonal Pavilion 21.55-window palace 22.Siddhilakshmi Shikhara 23.Vatsala Shikhara 24. Shiva temple 25.Harishankar temple 26.Nyatapola 7.Bhairav temple 28.Til Mahadev narayan

Golden Gate and Fifty-five Window Palace. The entrance is flanked by the figure of Hanuman, the monkey god in Tantric form as the 4-armed Hanuman Bhairab, worshipped for strength and devotion.
The Palace of Fifty-five Windows (Pachpanna Jhyale Durbar) was built during the reign of Malla King Bhupatindra Malla 1696-1722 but not completed until 1754 by his son Ranjit Malla. It is still used for ceremonies. Lu Dhowka/ Golden Gate is said to be the most beautiful and richly molded of its kind in the world. The door is surmounted by 4-headed, 10-armed figure of Hindu goddess Kali (as Taleju Bhawani) and Garuda (Vishnu’s griffin mount) dispatching serpents, attended by two heavenly nymphs. It is embellished with monsters and other Hindu mythical creatures of marvellous intricacy.
The gate was erected by King Ranjit Malla and is the entrance to the main palace courtyard. We had to put away our cameras as we went through to the inner courtyards. Around the corner was the entrance to Taleju Chowk and Temple (forbidden to non-Hindus, although we could see everything from the entrance anyway). Interestingly the statues are mainly Tibetan in origin! From Bhairab Chowk we went through to the magnificent royal water tank Naga Pokhari in Mul Chowk. Built in 1678 by Jitamitra Malla from a natural spring the Naga Pokhari (Royal Bath) is also considered a hiti as water pours from a gilded stone water spout into a sunken basin. There are Nagas (god-snakes), encircling the bath. A Hiti is a water basin that is filled from a natural spring through a spout. In 1678 it was a part of a much larger compound which disappeared through the years.
We headed back out of the palace, directly past Pashupatinath Temple, and down the narrow stone lanes to Pottery Square to watch Bhaktapur's famous pottery as it is traditionally made in this idyllic square filled with potters and their wares. Sadly, all the pieces were far too big to take
-worked potters home, so we just admired their skill on the traditional footwheel. Then back up the side streets enjoying handicraft stores, artisans, local cafes and countless ancient buildings. We ended at Taumadhi Square, a huge square with the tallest temple in Nepal. This was Nyatapol(a) Temple with a five-tier roof and ornate exterior stone staircase. Nyatapola in Newari language means five stories, symbolic of the five basic elements. This is the biggest and highest pagoda in Nepal, built with architectural perfection and artistic beauty. The temple's foundation is said to be made wider than its base.
This temple is dedicated to Goddess Shiddhilaxmi. and as bodyguards, statues are in five layers of the base. It is said that it took 3 generations to complete the temple. The temple is famously known as pancha tale mandira. Built between 1701/2 in just 6 months by King Bhupatindra Malla. The struts, doors, windows, and tympana are decorated with carvings of divine figures. The story goes that in 1702 the god Bhairava (Hindu -Bhairab) became angry and caused havoc among the local community. King Bhupatendra Malla prayed to Parvati for help and she came in a dream in the form of Siddhi Laxmi and took Bhairab in the palm of her hand. She then began the construction of a temple (Nyatapola) dedicated to Siddhi Laxmi which would be much larger than Bhairav’s temple and stand close by (actually opposite). Along the stone staircase leading up to the Nyatapola temple are several guardians on either side. The first are Bhaktapur’s strongest men, Jayamel and Phattu, (famous wrestlers) who allegedly had the strength of ten men. Next are two elephants. Then two lions followed by two griffins. Finally there is “Baghini/Toyahagrini” and “Singhini”, the tantric tiger and lion goddesses. Each guardian is said to have ten times the strength of the previous. At the top of the temple is a locked shrine where there is a statue of Siddhi Laxmi said to be the fiercest in all Nepal. The only people every allowed to view it are local priests. You can however view carvings of her on the Torana above the door. Likewise there are 180 roof struts which have depictions of her along with Hindu and Buddhist carvings in line with Newari traditions. Interestingly the Bhairab temple nearby has a highly decorated statue of him but very small in comparison. Many people doubt how such a magnificent temple could have been built in only 7 months, but the Nyatapola temple is one of the few buildings in Nepal with very accurate daily records (Siddhagni Kotyahuti Devala Pratistha manuscript) which documented its construction.
Nyatapola Temple; Bhairav Nath temple
Opposite was the Bhairab Nath temple of Bhairab (the dreadful aspect of Shiva). Built by King Jagat Jyoti Malla in pagoda style, it was later remodelled by King Bhupatindra Malla into 3 stories with a broad front. Dedicated to Kasi Bhairav, the temple of Bhairavnath has a 15cm disembodied head of Bhairav in the inner sanctum. Legend has it that Kasi Bhairav’s head was cut off by a tantric expert in order to keep him in Bhaktapur. Casually stacked against the north wall of the temple are enormous wheels and runners from the chariot used to haul the image of Bhairab around town during Jatra festival. The first temple on this site was a modest structure built in the early 17th century, but King Bhupatindra Malla added an extra storey in 1717 and a third level was added after the 1934 earthquake. A small hole in the temple's central door (below a row of carved boar snouts) is used to push offerings into the temple’s interior; prior to the 2015 earthquake, priests accessed the interior through the small Betal Temple, on the south side of the main pagoda, but this collapsed entirely. The temple’s facade is guarded by two brass lions holding the Nepali flag, the only flag that is not rectangular or square. To the right of the door is an image of Bhairab painted on rattan, decorated with a gruesome garland of buffalo guts. Next to the temple is a sunken hiti with a particularly fine spout in the form of a makara (mythical crocodile-like beast). The small 14th century Temple of Jeth Ganesh, is next door.

From here it was a 10 minute walk to the oldest square in Bhaktapur, Dattatreya Square. Dattatreya Square is dated to the early 15th century, but could well be much older. It is likely that it was the first square used by Nepali royalty, and probably the site of their first palace There is little indication why Bhaktapur Durbar Square took over other than due to its additional size which would have been more suitable for an
expanding kingdom. Dattatreya Square is often called Tachapal Tole (tole means market street in Nepali and still has some old market stalls). The square has an open central area with two main temples along with a smaller one. There are also two museums and a host of side streets leading to markets, monuments and yet more temples.
Dattatreya Square contains Dattatreya temple, a dancing platform with a tall Garuda statue and Bhimsen Temple.
Dattatreya Square
Temples: A.Bhimsen B.Lakshmi Narayan C.Dattatreya (Sattal) D.Vanalayaku (Forest Palace) Math: 1.Sithu 2.Dathu 3.Taja 4.Pujahari 5.Chikanphale 6.Godavari 7.Bardalighar 8.Purano Chota 9.Jangam
Bhimsen rear, Bhimsen front with Lakshmi narayan; Lakshmi Narayan with Garuda coulmn
We first arrived at the two roofed rectangular Bhimsen Temple. It looked so very different to other temples in Nepal and no one knows the exact date of its construction though 1605 is generally agreed. From the dance platform in front, look up into the first floor above the open ground floor. There in the centre is a shrine where a clay image of Bhimsen, the god of trade and commerce, portrayed with a red face, angry eyes and a thick black mustache. We walked through the open ground floor to the back of the temple where there was a very old deep hiti known as Bhimsen Pokhari, which archaeologists say predates the temple. Back at the platform in front of Bhimsen temple is a column with a Naga at the top. Bhimsen temple is undergoing renovation work, which is nearly complete. Next to it was Laxmi Narayan Temple, a small two-tiered temple dedicated to Laxmi/Narayan. Finally, in the quiet square was Dattatreya Temple, one of the oldest in Bhaktapur, with a tall Garuda column. The temple was built in pagoda style in 1427 by King Yaksha Malla (1428-82), and restored in 1548 by King Vishwa Malla. It’s said to be the only temple in Nepal dedicated to Dattatreya who is part of the trinity of Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma. Legend tells of the temple being built using the timber from a single tree (similar to Kasthamandap in Kathmandu). The front area is a little di!erent from the rest as it was added later. The base of the temple has several erotic carvings and (like Nyatapol) is guarded at its base steps by statues of the Rajput wrestlers Jayamel and Phattu (Jaimala/ Pata). There is also a chakra.
Dattatreya temple
Behind the Dattatreya temple were Pujar Math (Woodcarving Museum) / Brass and Bronze Museum, standing opposite each other. We noticed a puppet looking out from one of the top windows of the woodcarving museum! This lovely math (monastery) was built in 1763 and converted to the museum quite recently. On down the lane was the famous Peacock window set high in a wall (dated 1548). The window is said to have been made in the 15th century and sometimes referred to as the "Mona Lisa" of Nepal.
We now walked back towards Tripura-sundari Temple (a Char Dham temple to the 4 great Hindu deities) and ending at the pond (pokhari) Siddha Pokhari or Ta Pukhu on the main crossroads. Once Bhaktapur had numerous ponds or pukhus. Today, there still are 33 of them in the city. Siddha Pokhari or Ta Pukhu (Big Pond) located at Dudhpati (at the entrance of the city), is said to have been built in the 15th century during the reign of King Yaksha Malla. It becomes a focal point during the Dashain festival (Oct-Nov). Considered to be the oldest pond in Bhaktapur, it measures 275 x 92 meters and there are quite a lot of fish in it.
Entrance to Palikhel Dhunge Dhara (stone water spout); side view Nyatapola Temple
Festivals Bhaktapur is known as a city of festivals. Some unusual ones include Gathamaga chary or straw devil festival. Locals make gathamaga dolls which they burn to remove devils. It is said that a mosquito loses its one leg this day. Gunla Panchadan, the 10th month of Nepal (Aug/Sept), is a sacred month dedicated to Buddha and celebrated in Kathmandu, Patan, Bhaktapur. In Bhaktapur, the last day has 5 Buddhas brought to Taumadhi square accompanied by Gunla Baja, an instrument played only today as Buddhas are walked around Bhaktapur. Pulu Kisi (Indra Jatra) puppets tell the story of Pulukisi. The son of Lord Indra of heaven was kidnapped by a devil named Maisasur who tied him to a pole and killed him. Indra sent an elephant, Pulukisi, to find and kill Maisasur.

We now drove back towards Kathmandu to go to Swayambhunath Stupa (often called Monkey Temple, due to the number of monkeys living there), a crowning glory of Kathmandu Valley architecture. The perfectly proportioned monument rises from the whitewashed dome to a gilded spire, from which the four faces of Buddha stare across the valley in cardinal directions. The nose-like squiggle below the piercing eyes is the Nepali number ek (1), signifying unity, and above a third eye signifies the all-seeing Buddha. The entire structure is symbolic: the white dome represents earth (as in the entire world), while the 13-tiered, beehive structure at the top symbolises the 13 stages humans pass to nirvana (or Buddhahood). The base of the central stupa is ringed by prayer wheels embossed with the sacred mantra om mani padme hum (hail to the jewel in the lotus).
Pilgrims circuiting the stupa spin each one as pass. Fluttering above are 1000s of prayer flags, with mantras, said to be carried to heaven by the winds. Set in ornate plinths around the top are statues representing the Dhyani (Pancha or 5) Buddhas; in each plinth all 5 are depicted, but each direction has a different main one. These are: Vairocana (occupies the centre and is the master of the temple), Ratnasambhava (faces the south and represents the cosmic element of sensation), Amitabha (represents the cosmic element of Sanjna (name) and faces West), Amocha Siddhi (Amoghasiddhi- represents the cosmic element of confirmation and faces the north), Aksobhya (faces the east and represents the cosmic element of consciousness); (ie the 5 qualities of Buddhist wisdom), and their shakti (consorts). Swa(o)yambhunath Stupa is often called Monkey Temple due to the large number of monkeys that live around it in the parkland / woods. There is a large pair of eyes on each of the four sides of the main stupa which represent Wisdom and Compassion. Above each pair of eyes is another eye, the third eye. It is said that when Buddha preaches, cosmic rays emanate from the third eye which acts as messages to heavenly beings so that those interested can come down to earth to listen to the Buddha. Although hellish beings and beings below the human realm cannot come to earth to listen to the Buddha's teaching, the cosmic rays can relieve their suffering when Buddha preaches. Between the two eyes (also called Wisdom Eyes), a curly symbol, symbolising the nose, is depicted (it looks like a question mark), which is the Nepali sign of number one. This sign represents the unity of all things existing in the world as well as the only path to enlightenment through the teachings of Buddha.
We parked outside and walked into the lower level, which has an abundance of monuments. A small statue in the centre of a pool was the focus of a ritual to toss a coin to land in its hands. After a lot of throws both of us managed! Then it was on up the steps to some religious stalls, where we purchased a beautiful hand made singing bowl (which was great fun to home as it ruined every X-ray attempt!).
ad579720-cc2f-11eb-9cc2-095120405193.pngAn interesting game called Bagh-Chal "Tiger game" was shown to us. This strategic two-person board game originates in Nepal. The game is asymmetric in that one player controls 4 tigers and the other player controls up to twenty goats. The tigers’ hunt’ the goats while the goats attempt to block the tigers movements. Much of Swayambhunath’s iconography comes from the Vajrayana tradition of Newar Buddhism. However, the complex is also an important site for Buddhists of many schools, and is also revered by Hindus. The entire valley was once filled with an enormous lake, out of which grew a lotus. The valley came to be known as Swayambhu, meaning “self created”. The name comes from an eternal self existent light (svyahu) over which a stupa was built.
Swayambhunath is also known as the Monkey Temple as there are holy monkeys living in the north-west parts of the temple. They are holy because Manjushri, the bodhisattva of wisdom and learning raised the hill which the stupa stands on. He was supposed to leave his hair short but he made it grow long and his head lice transformed into these monkeys. Manjusri had a vision of the Lotus at Swayambhu and traveled there to worship it. To make the site more accessible to human pilgrims, he cut a gorge at Chovar. The water drained out of the lake, leaving the valley in which Kathmandu now lies. The Lotus was transformed into a hill and the flower became the stupa. Swayambhunath is among the oldest religious site in Nepal. According to the Gop#lar#java!$#val%, it was founded by the great- grandfather of King M#nadeva (464-505 AD), King V&sadeva, confirmed by a damaged stone inscription at the site, which indicates that King Vrsadeva ordered work done in 640. Emperor Ashoka is said to have visited the site in the third century BC and built a temple on the hill which was later destroyed. Although the site is Buddhist, the place is revered by both Buddhists and Hindus. Numerous Hindu monarch followers are known to have paid their homage to the temple, including Pratap Malla, the powerful king of Kathmandu, who is responsible for the construction of the eastern stairway in the 17th century. The stupa was completely renovated in 2010, by the Tibetan Nyingma Meditation Centre of California.
Overall view of stupa; Ajima Temple
At the top of the hill was the large stupa itself, surrounded by other small buildings and covered with monkeys. We watched the sun set behind the hills and set off back down to the car. The driver, Mr. Ram, took us back to the hotel in Kathmandu and agreed to collect us the next morning at 8am. We offered our travelling companion Salvador dinner with us at Northfield cafe and enjoyed a pleasant evening with live music in the background.

Posted by PetersF 15:28 Archived in Nepal Tagged temples nepal kathmandu bhaktapur patan Comments (0)

Nepal Chitwan

from Kathmandu to Chitwan; highlands to lowlands

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October 3rd Chitwan, Nepal

We had an early drive to Chitwan so we backed an overnight bag and checked the rest of the bags in with the hotel concierge. Having said goodbye to Salvador, we found we were alone in the minibus. The driver (Mr Ram) proved way more chatty now he was on his own with us. The journey this time was not so bad and we arrived at the restaurant at early lunch (though we’d brought our own with us this time and just had a coffee there don’t think they were too impressed, but that was the result of their shoddy service and possible food poisoning last time).
As we got to Mugling we turned left over an impressive gorge instead of right (the road to Pokhara). We followed the Trishuli river down steep canyons and gorges on its way to the lowlands. There were some very impressive waterfalls on the way. Finally we a large town, Bharatpur. This city in southern central Nepal is the fourth largest city in Nepal and the district headquarters of the Chitwan District, as well as a separate metropolitan authority. Bharatpur is one of the fastest-growing cities in Nepal. It lies on the southern bank of the Narayani River and serves as a commercial centre of the Chitwan district and the central region of Nepal. Most of the shopping area lies in the suburbs of Narayangadh, while government offices, hospitals and colleges are situated in other parts of the city. The Narayani River flows north to south in the south of Bharatpur. It is the deepest and one of the largest rivers in Nepal. The Narayani Bridge over this river connects Chitwan District with Nawalpur District of Nepal. Small islands, like Nagarban in Narayani river, in it are popular picnic spots. The Rapti River flows east to southwest in the south of Bharatpur and meets the northern border of the Chitwan National Park. We drove on south through Tikauli Jungle for half an hour and arrived at the much smaller town of Ratnanagar. Here we turned off the main road to drive the last 15 minutes to the large village of Sauraha, on the egde of Chitwan park, and where our hotel, Jungle World resort, was based. http://www.jungleworldresort.com is probably the best resort in Sauraha, is a serene place to spend a weekend awakened by the chirping of birds, with state of art facilities, warm hospitality and luxurious 16 rooms in tharu style, all with bathroom and solar heated showers. A swimming pool with a magnificent mature garden surrounds the complex with rare indigenous trees, shrubs and flowers which attract birds and butterflies. We serve delicious local dishes, freshly made with fresh ingredients in an hygienic clean environment. Our Expert Naturalist takes you to deep forest of Chitwan National Park, where you can see animals in their natural habitat. Jungle World Resort provides the chance to see precious flora and fauna.
On our arrival we were given our agenda for the next few days, with alternatives if we wanted, but it seemed perfect so we agreed it. After dinner, a buffet affair, we were driven for a show in nearby Saurhara (about 3 mins drive, we could have walked!) at 7.45. This was the Tharu show and was excellent. The show demonstrated a number of local dances, many of which revolved around jungle and agricultural activities. The highlight for us were two of their famous Tharu Stick Dances. For variety they ended with someone in a peacock costume with his hand as their head as the head, miming eating seeds from the floor. A little bizarre, but whatever. The show finished at 9pm and we went back for an early night as we were off early the next day to see the wildlife waking up.

The Tharu people are an ethnic group indigenous to the southern foothills of the Himalayas; most of the Tharu people live in the Nepal Terai. The word थारू thāru is thought to be derived from sthavir meaning follower of Theravada buddhism. The origin of the Tharu people is not clear but surrounded by myths and oral tradition. The Rana Tharus claim to be of Rajput origin and have migrated from the Thar Desert to Nepal's Far West Terai region (Rajput from Sanskrit raja-putra, "son of a king") is a large multi-component cluster of castes, kin bodies, local groups, sharing social status/ ideology of genealogical descent originating from the Indian subcontinent. The term covers various patrilineal clans historically associated with warriorhood. The term acquired its present meaning only in the 16th century, although it is also anachronistically used to describe the earlier lineages that emerged in northern India from 6th century onwards). Tharu people farther east claim to be descendants of the "!kya and Koliya peoples living in Kapilvastu (The Shakya (Sanskrit: Śākya) were a clan of late Vedic India (c.1000– c.500 BC) and the later so-called second urbanisation period (c.600–c.200 BC) in the Indian subcontinent nations of India and Nepal. The Shakyas formed an independent oligarchic republican state known as the Śākya Gaṇarājya, with its capital at Kapilavastu, which may have been located in present-day Tilaurakot, Nepal or Piprahwa, India. The best-known Shakya was Siddhartha Gautama, the founder of Buddhism (c. 6th to 4th centuries BC) aka Gautama Buddha. Siddhartha was the son of "uddhodana, the chosen leader of the Śākya Gaṇarājya. The Koliyas/koli were Kshatriya of the Adicca (Iksvaku) clan of the Solar Dynasty, during the time of Gautama Buddha. The family members of these two royal families married only among themselves. Both clans were proud of the purity of their royal blood and had practised this tradition of inter-marriage since ancient times. For example, Suddhodana's paternal aunt was married to the Koliyan ruler Añjana. Their daughters, Mahamaya and Mahapajapati Gotami were married to "uddhodana, the chief of the Sakya. Yashodhara, daughter of Suppabuddha (Añjana’s son), was married to the Sakya prince, Gautama Buddha. In spite of close blood-ties, there would be occasional rifts between the two royal families, which sometimes turned into open hostility. The Sakya and Koliya ruled on opposite banks of the Rohni River as independent republics. Their representatives were called rajas and their chief was the maharaja or ganapati. The Koliya chief settlements were Santhagara, Ramagama and Devadaha (Nawalparasi). Tharu families worked under the system of bonded labour known as Kamaiya which existed in Nepal until the 18th century. Following the Unification of Nepal members of the ruling elite families of Terai received land grants and were entitled to collect revenue from those who cultivated the land. In 1854, Jung Bahadur Rana, the Nepalese PM, enforced the Muluki Ain (General Code) which classified Hindus and Non- Hindus castes based on their habits of food and drink. Tharu people were categorised "Paani Chalne Masinya Matwali" (touchable enslavable alcohol drinking group) together with several other alcohol drinking ethnic minorities. In the late 1950s, the WHO and Nepalese government worked to eradicate malaria in the forests of central Terai using DDT and non-Tharu people settled in the region. In the western Terai, many Tharu families lost the land they used to cultivate, to these immigrants and were forced as Kamaiya. When the first protected areas were established in Chitwan, Tharu communities were forced to relocate from their traditional lands. They were denied a right to own land and forced into a situation of landlessness and poverty. When Chitwan National Park was established, Nepalese soldiers destroyed the villages located inside the boundary of the park, burned down houses, and beat the people who tried to plough their fields. Some threatened Tharu people at gunpoint to leave. The Tharus are now recognised as an official nationality by the Government of Nepal, which made bonded labour illegal in 2000. The Tharu say that they are a people of the forest. In Chitwan, they have lived in the forests for hundreds of years practicing a short fallow shifting cultivation. They plant rice, mustard, corn and lentils, collect forest products such as wild fruits, vegetables, medicinal plants and materials to build their houses; hunt deer, rabbit and wild boar, and go fishing in the rivers and oxbow lakes.
Tharus never went away for employment. In their isolation they developed a unique culture free from the influence of adjacent India or Nepal. The most striking aspects of their environment are the decorated rice containers, colourfully painted verandahs and outer walls of their homes using only available materials like clay, mud, dung and grass. Much of the rich design is rooted in devotional activities and passed from one generation to the next, occasionally introducing contemporary elements such as a bus or an airplane. The Deukheri Tharu are known for their colourful shell and/or feather decorated basketry, including ram topne water jug covers. In the western Terai, most Rana Tharu prefer living in Badaghar (longhouses) with big families of many generations, up to 40-50 people. All members pool their labour, contribute their income, share the expenditure and use one kitchen. Tharus from the mid/ far west of Nepal have been practicing the Badghar system, where a Badghar is elected chief of a village/ small group of villages for a year. The election takes place in Magd (Jan/ Feb), after celebrating the Maghi Festival and completing major farming activities. In most cases, each household has one voting right for electing a Badghar. The role of the Badghar is to work for the welfare of the village; eg to direct the villagers to repair the canals. They manage the cultural traditions of the villages and have the authority to punish those who go against the welfare of the village. Generally the Badghar has a Chaukidar to help him. With the consent of the villagers the Badghar may appoint a "Guruwa” who is the medic and chief priest of the village. As farming is the main activity, irrigation is one of the most important aspects of the community. Tharus in western Nepal built canals that irrigate thousands of hectares of land. Hundreds of years ago, without sophisticated tools, they built hundreds of kilometers of irrigation canals in the Kailali and Bardiya districts of Nepal. An irrigation canal
could be used by several villages. To ensure its water and diversion works were managed fairly, the Badghars of different villages elect a Chaudhary to manage the canal system. Badghars and Chaudhary are exempt from physical labour and as a token of respect, the community members help them in farming for a day free of cost. Tharu communities in different parts of Nepal and India do not share the same language. Several speak various endemic Tharu languages. In western Nepal Tharus speak variants of Hindi, Urdu and Awadhi. In central Nepal, they speak a variant of Bhojpuri. In eastern Nepal, they speak a variant of Maithili. Tharus already lived in the Terai before Indo- Europeans arrived. It is unclear which language they spoke at that time. The only surviving pre-Indo-European languages in Terai are Kusunda (a language isolate; the last fluent speaker .died this year), and Santhali further west (an austro-asiatic language spoken widely across west Nepal/India). Tharu people of Nepal have different and special food items like Bagiya/ Dhikri and ghonghi, an edible snail collected in nearby water bodies. Dhikri is made of rice flour. The dough from the rice flour is given different shapes of birds, fish and animals. It is cooked over steam and eaten with chutney or curry. The ghonghi are left overnight so that all the gooey material inside them comes out. Their tail end is cut so that it is easier to suck out the meat from the shell. They are boiled and later cooked like curry adding spices like coriander, chili, garlic and onions.
Terai Plains The lowland region of south Nepal/ north India lies south of the outer Himalaya foothills and is characterised by tall grasslands, scrub savannah, sal forests and clay rich swamps. In Nepal, the Terai stretches over 33,998.8 km2, about 23.1% of Nepal's land area, at an altitude of 67-300 m. The region comprises more than 50 wetlands. North of the Terai is the Bhabhar, a narrow continuous belt of forest 8–12 km wide. The Terai is crossed by the large perennial Himalayan rivers Yamuna, Ganges, Sarda, Karnali, Narayani and Kosi that have built up alluvial fans covering thousands of km below the hills. Medium rivers such as the Rapti rise in the Mahabharat Range. The geological structure of the region consists of old and new alluvium, both of which constitute alluvial deposits of mainly sand, clay, silt, gravels and coarse fragments. The alluvium is renewed every year by fresh deposits brought by the streams. Large numbers of small seasonal rivers flow through the Terai, most of which originate in the Siwalik Hills. Terai soil is alluvial and fine/medium textured. Deforestation and increased cultivation has led to a sinking water table. The Makwanpur Kingdom controlled the central Terai region of Nepal. When Prithvi Narayan Shah engaged in his campaign to control all Nepal, deep unrest spread in the Sen Kingdoms of the Kirat region. Makwanpur, which had broken away from the Kirat Kingdom of Viyayapur, was being ruled by King Manik Sen, who was succeeded by his son, Hemkarna Sen. Soon after Shah attacked and conquered the area, bringing it into his kingdom.

Posted by PetersF 12:00 Archived in Nepal Tagged nepal chitwan tharu Comments (0)

Chitwan- gharial spotting

into the wetlands and along the river

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October 4th Chitwan, Nepal

We got up bright and early, as requested, for a quick bite to eat at 6.30 am, before we took a short jeep ride down to Rapati (East Rapti) river.
Chitwan Royal National Park in the Terai subtropical lowlands is a premier attraction in Nepal, and little damaged in the 2015 quake. The World Heritage listed reserve protects 932km2 of forests, marshland, and grassland; home to sizeable wildlife populations. Meaning ‘Heart of the Jungle’, Chitwan is one of the best in Asia, and you have an excellent chance of spotting one-horned rhinos, deer, gharial, monkeys, up to 544 species of birds, Royal Bengal tigers, leopards, wild elephants and sloth bears. Sadly, Chitwan lost many animals during the decade-long Maoist insurgency, when the army were unable to provide adequate protection from poachers. However, recent census figures show rhino and tiger numbers steadily increasing. Sauraha has a lively backpacker scene, and it's a great place to have a beer watching the sunset over Rapti river.
At the river our wooden dug out canoes were waiting. These skiffs were clearly made of single trunks, and had little clearance underneath as the river is not deep. A platform had been created at each end for the owner to stand and punt along. We were lucky to be paired up with a young British couple who were keen to do the same as us that day; ie. a canoe ride followed by a full day jungle trek.
Rapati river is a moderate width and fairly fast moving with lots of sedge, grass and mud banks at the edge, with light to moderate jungle behind. Because of this it was a great place to spot loads of wildlife, from tiny flitting birds to huge sunbathing crocodiles and everything in between.
The East Rapti River flows from east to west through the Chitwan Valley in Nepal, forming the northern border of the Chitwan National Park. It joins the Narayani River inside the protected area. Ultimately it joins the Ganges, so is part of the “sacred river” complex, although the Tharu are not a particularly religious people. We noticed the lack of temples whilst we were there, and our guide said that the Tharu mainly liked to live in harmony with nature, so they were sort of nature-animist-Hindu-Buddhist mix (with a bit of Islam and Christianity thrown in!)

As you would expect, given that it was dawn, the first few animals we came across were birds. We saw lapwings, herons, storks and plovers begin their feeding on the banks and in the shallows first.
The Eastern great egret (Ardea alba modesta), a white heron in the genus Ardea, is usually considered a subspecies of the great egret. The diet includes vertebrates such as fish, frogs, small reptiles and birds, rodents and invertebrates like insects, crustaceans and molluscs. The eastern great egret hunts by wading or standing still in shallow water and spearing prey with its bill. The eastern great egret often breeds in colonies with other herons, egrets, cormorants, spoonbills and ibises.
Storks are large, long-legged, long-necked wading birds with long, stout bills. They belong to the family called Ciconiidae. Ciconiiformes previously included herons and ibises, but these have been moved. Bill-clattering is an important mode of communication at the nest. Many species are migratory. Most storks eat frogs, fish, insects, earthworms, small birds and small mammals. Various terms are used to refer to groups of storks, eg muster and phalanx of storks.Storks are heavy, with wide wingspans. Their nests are very large and may be used for many years. Some nests have been known to grow to over 2 m in diameter and about 3 m in depth. Storks were once thought to be monogamous, but this is only partially true. They may change mates after migrations. Storks’ size, monogamy, and faithfulness to an established nesting site contribute to their prominence in mythology and culture. The lesser adjutant (Leptoptilos javanicus) has a bare neck and head. It is closely associated with wetland habitats where it is solitary and may scavenge. Location of prey appears to be entirely visual, with one observation of storks sitting on telegraph poles apparently scanning a marsh for prey. They are largely silent but clatter their bill, hiss and moan at the nest. A threat display called "Arching" is given in the presence of intruders; adults extend their neck and give a hoarse wail. Courtship behaviour of the lesser adjutant is identical to other species of the genus. During pair formation, female birds lift their heads in a scooping motion with bill-clattering (Balancing Posture).
The Red-wattled lapwing (Vanellus indicus) is an Asian lapwing or large plover, a wader in the family Charadriidae. Like other lapwings they are ground birds incapable of perching. Their characteristic loud alarm calls are indicators of human or animal movements. Usually seen in pairs or small groups close to water. They sometimes form large aggregations in the non-breeding season (winter). They nest in a ground scrape laying three to four camouflaged eggs. Adults near the nest fly around, diving at potential predators while calling noisily. The cryptically patterned chicks hatch and immediately follow their parents to feed, hiding by lying low on the ground or in the grass when threatened. The River lapwing (Vanellus duvaucelii) is a lapwing species which breeds from the Indian Subcontinent eastwards to Southeast Asia. It appears to be entirely sedentary. The Little ringed plover (Charadrius dubius) is a small plover. The genus name Charadrius is a Late Latin word for a yellowish bird mentioned in the fourth-century Vulgate. It derives from Ancient Greek kharadrios a bird found in river valleys.
1.Egret,peacock,plover; 2.River Lapwing; 3.Red wattled Lapwing
1.White Stork 2.Little ringed Plover 3.Lesser adjutant Stork
Shortly after our guide excitedly pointed out a very rare bird on the banks, a chestnut-breasted partridge (Arborophila mandellii). This is a species of partridge endemic to the eastern Himalayas north of the Brahmaputra, and is known from Bhutan, Sikkim, north India, Nepal and south-east Tibet. It is a distinctive partridge with chestnut breast-band and grey belly.
It is distinguished from the similar rufous-throated partridge A. rufogularis by more rufescent crown and head-sides, white gorget and entirely chestnut upper breast. This bird has been classified as Vulnerable, with an estimated population of less than 10,000. It is threatened by forest degradation, which is fragmenting the population, and by hunting.
It wasn’t long before we started coming across the first of quite a few Mugger Crocodiles, all very inactive so early in the morning. Some were early morning sunbathing on the bank, whilst others were still keeping warm half-submerged in the river. The Mugger or Marsh crocodile (Crocodylus palustris), aka broad-snouted crocodile is a crocodilian native to freshwater habitats from southern Iran to the Indian subcontinent, though now extinct in Bhutan. It has been listed as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List. It is a medium-sized crocodile that inhabits lakes, rivers, and marshes. Both young and adult mugger crocodiles dig burrows where they retreat when temperatures drop below 5 °C or exceeds 38 °C. Females dig holes in the sand as nesting sites and lay up to 46 eggs. The sex of the hatchlings depends on the temperature during incubation. It preys on fish, reptiles, large insects, birds and mammals. It is one of three crocodilians in India/Nepal, the others being the saltwater crocodile (C. porosus) and gharial (Gavialis gangeticus). The mugger is a medium-sized crocodilian, but has the broadest snout among crocodilians, a powerful tail and webbed feet. Its visual, auditory and olfactory senses are acute. Adult females are 2 m on average, and males up to 3.5 m. Mugger crocodiles have been documented using lures to hunt birds; the first reptiles recorded to use tools. By balancing sticks and branches on their heads, they lure birds that are looking for nesting material. This strategy is particularly effective during the nesting season.
Mugger crocodile in the water (blue dragonfly to the right); Mugger crocodile on land

Interestingly, we saw all four local kingfishers; White-throated; Stork-billed; Ruddy and Common kingfisher.
Kingfishers (Alcedinidae) are a family of small to medium-sized, brightly coloured birds in the order Coraciiformes. They have a cosmopolitan distribution, with most species found in tropical regions. The family contains 114 species. All kingfishers have large heads, long, sharp, pointed bills, short legs, and stubby tails. Most species have bright plumage with only small differences between the sexes. Most species are tropical in distribution, and a slight majority e of prey usually caught by swooping down from a perch. While kingfishers are usually thought to live near rivers and eat fish, many species live away from water and eat small invertebrates. They nest in cavities, usually tunnels dug into the natural or artificial banks in the ground. Some kingfishers nest in arboreal termite nests. In Britain, the word "kingfisher" normally refers to the common kingfisher.
The plumage of most kingfishers is bright, with green and blue being the most common colours. The bright colours are not the product of iridescence or pigments, but is caused by the structure of the feathers, which causes scattering of blue light (Tyndall effect). Kingfishers have long, dagger-like bills. The bill is usually longer and more compressed in species that hunt fish, and shorter and more broad in species that hunt prey off the ground.
White-throated; Stork-billed; Ruddy; Common kingfisher.
They generally have short legs, although species that feed on the ground have longer tarsi. Most species have four toes, three of which are forward-pointing. The irises of most species are dark brown. The kingfishers have excellent vision; they are capable of binocular vision and are thought in particular to have good colour vision. They have restricted movement of their eyes within the eye sockets, instead using head movements to track prey. In addition, they are capable of compensating for the refraction of water and reflection when hunting prey underwater, and are able to judge depth under water accurately. They also have nictitating membranes that cover the eyes to protect them when they hit the water; the pied kingfisher has a bony plate which slides across the eye when it hits the water.

Soon after the river became quicker and the jungle closer. Some movement on the left bank attracted our eyes, and we saw it was a Rhesus Macaque monkey troupe with young ones out playing. Rhesus macaques are native through much of Asia; the widest geographic ranges of any nonhuman primate. Rhesus macaques may be found in grasslands, woodlands, and mountainous regions up to 2,500 m. They are regular swimmers. Babies as young as a few days old can swim, and adults can swim over half a mile Rhesus macaques are noted for their tendency to move from rural to urban areas, coming to rely on handouts or refuse from humans. Rhesus macaques are diurnal, and both arboreal and terrestrial. They are quadrupedal and, when on the ground, walk digitigrade and plantigrade. They are mostly herbivorous, feeding mainly on fruit, but also eating seeds, roots, buds, bark, and cereals. They have also been observed eating termites, grasshoppers, ants, and beetles. Rhesus macaques have specialized pouch-like cheeks, allowing them to temporarily hoard their food. In research, rhesus macaques have demonstrated a variety of complex cognitive abilities, including the ability to make same-different judgments, understand simple rules, and monitor their own mental states. They have been shown to demonstrate self-agency, an important type of self- awareness. In 2014, onlookers at a train station in Kanpur, India, documented a rhesus monkey, knocked unconscious by overhead power lines, that was revived by another rhesus that systematically administered a series of resuscitative actions. The chimpanzee and human genome diverged 6 million years ago, with 98% gene convergence. Comparing the macaque and human genomes, which diverged 25 million years ago, only 93% are the same. Surprisingly, some normal gene sequences in healthy macaques and chimpanzees cause disease in humans. For example, the normal sequence of phenylalanine hydroxylase in macaques and chimpanzees is the mutated sequence responsible for phenylketonuria in humans. So, humans must have been under evolutionary pressure to adopt a different mechanism.
Mother and teenaged macaque; snake under log; Pied Starling pair
The pied myna or Asian pied starling (Gracupica contra) is a species of starling found in the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia. They are usually found in small groups mainly on the plains and low foothills. They are often seen within cities and villages although they are not as bold as the common myna. They produce a range of calls made up of liquid notes. Several slight plumage variations exist in the populations and about five subspecies are named. This myna is strikingly marked in black and white and has a yellowish bill with a reddish bill base. The bare skin around the eye is reddish. The upper body, throat and breast are black while the cheek, lores, wing coverts and rump are contrastingly white. The sexes are similar in plumage but young birds have dark brown in place of black. The subspecies vary slightly in plumage, extent of streaking of the feathers and in measurements. An instance of interspecific feeding, where an adult of a common myna fed a young pied myna has been reported. These mynas form communal roosts at night and jointly defend nesting area. The ability of mynas to mimic human voices made them popular as pets.
The snake was very difficult to identify, as we could only see the smooth mid section scales; my best guess is a Rat Snake (Ptyas mucosa), although it could have been a Spectacled Cobra (Naja naja), a Red-necked Keelback (Rhabdophis subminiatus), or even a Siebold’s water snake (Enhydris sieboldii) although the last two are less probable. All of them are common in Chitwan, all are happy in and around water and all grow to a good size. Judging by the mid section we saw, this specimen must have been a good metre+ in length!
Ptyas mucosa, commonly the oriental or Indian rat snake, darash or dhaman, is a common species of colubrid snake found in Asia. Dhamans are large snakes, growing to 2 m and occasionally even to 3 m. Their colour varies from pale to dark brown. Dhamans are diurnal, semi-arboreal, non-venomous, and fast-moving. Dhamans eat a variety of prey and are happy by water. They inhabit forest floors, wetlands, rice paddies, farmland, and suburban areas where they prey upon small reptiles, amphibians, birds, and mammals. Adults, unusually for a colubrid, prefer to subdue their prey by sitting on it rather than by constricting, using body weight to weaken prey.
The Indian cobra (Naja naja) aka spectacled, Asian, or binocellate cobra is found in India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Nepal, and Bhutan, and a member of the "big four" species that inflict the most snakebites on humans. It is distinct from the king cobra which belongs to the monotypic genus Ophiophagus. The Indian cobra is revered in Indian mythology and culture, and is often seen with snake charmers. The Indian cobra is a moderately sized, heavy bodied species easily identifiable by its relatively large and impressive hood, which it expands when threatened. The majority of adult specimens range from 1 to 1.5 m, although lengths of 2.2 m have been recorded. The dorsal scales are smooth and strongly oblique. Rhabdophis subminiatus, commonly the red-necked keelback, is a highly venomous snake in the family Colubridae. It grows to 90 cm in total length and lives near ponds, where it consumes frogs and fish. Rhabdophis subminiatus is a rear-fanged species and was previously thought to be harmless. However, the toxicity of its venom has recently been reclassified as a dangerous. Rear-fanged snakes need to bite and hold on, or repeatedly bite, to have any effect on humans. A chewing action facilitates envenomation as the venom ducts open to fangs that are externally grooved (not hollow). R. subminiatus has two enlarged teeth in the back of the snake’s jaw. Located in the upper jaw is a gland known as the Duvernoy's glands which produces an extremely venomous secretion. When the snake bites, the salivary venom mixture is not injected, but flows into the punctures produced by the upper rear teeth, which can penetrate human skin. The venom can cause internal hemorrhaging, including of the brain. Although most human bites from R. subminiatus involve the front teeth and do not cause adverse effects, rare bites from the rear fangs can be lethal. Siebold's water snake (Ferania sieboldii ) is a species of mildly venomous, rear-fanged, Homalopsidae snakes that lives in water.
Finally we came to a landing stage and after tipping the boatman, we disembarked to the jungle, ready for a nice trek. Everyone else had decided not to do a trek, but us 4 were keen, and with only a few steps we were in the jungle.

Sal forest in Chitwan The Himalayan subtropical broadleaf forest is an ecoregion that extends from the middle hills of central Nepal into Bhutan and Uttar Pradesh. It represents the east-west band of forest at an altitude between 500-1,000 m along the Outer Himalayan Range, and includes several forest types traversing an east to west moisture gradient. The ecoregion covers an area of 38,200 km2 and is bisected by the Kali Gandaki River, which has gouged the world's deepest river valley through the Himalayan Range. It forms a critical link in the chain of interconnected Himalayan ecosystems, where altitudinal connectivity between the habitat types is important for ecosystem function. The soil is composed of alluvium deposited over the ages by the rivers that drain this young mountain range. At lower elevations, the ecoregion is flanked by the Terai-Duar savannas and grasslands. Above 1,000 m it yields to the Himalayan subtropical pine forests. Rainfall varies from east to west, but annual rainfall can be as high as 2,000 mm. The Himalayas capture moisture from the monsoons in the Bay of Bengal, and most of this rainfall is expended in the eastern Himalayas. Eight protected areas extend into this ecoregion covering 2,710 km2 (7% of the area).
! Nepal: Chitwan National Park, Parsa National Park, Bardia National Park
! Bhutan: Royal Manas National Park, Khaling Wildlife Sanctuary, Phibsoo Wildlife Sanctuary.
The ecoregion hosts a broad range of plant communities, based on its complex topography, differing soils, and variations in rainfall from the dry west to the humid east. Its location on the south slope of the Himalaya allows the intermingling of plants and animals from the Indomalayan and Palearctic ecozones. The main forest types include Dodonaea scrub, subtropical dry evergreen forests of Olea cuspidata, northern dry mixed deciduous forests, dry Siwalik sal (Shorea robusta) forests, moist mixed deciduous forests, subtropical broadleaf wet hill forests, northern tropical semi-evergreen forests, and northern tropical wet evergreen forests. Several mammals native to the ecoregion are threatened, including the Bengal tiger, Indian elephant, smooth-coated otter, clouded leopard, Indian Grey mongoose, gaur, Himalayan serow, Irrawaddy squirrel, and parti-coloured flying squirrel. The bird fauna is very rich with more than 340 species.

Saccharum spontaneum (wild sugarcane, Kans grass, kash, translit. kahuwa, khagori) is a grass native to the Indian Subcontinent. It is a perennial, growing up to 3m high, with spreading rhizomatous roots. In the Terai-Duar savanna and grasslands, a lowland ecoregion at the base of the Himalayan range in Nepal, India and Bhutan, kans grass quickly colonises exposed silt plains created each year by the retreating monsoon floods, forming stands on the lowest portions of the floodplain. Kans grasslands are an important habitat for the Indian rhinoceros (Rhinoceros unicornis). In Nepal, it is harvested to thatch roofs or fence vegetable gardens.
Rhynchostylis retusa (foxtail orchid) is an exotic blooming orchid. The flower is a pendant raceme, consisting of more than 100 pink- spotted white flowers. The plant has a short, creeping stem carrying up to 12, curved, fleshy, deeply channeled, keeled leaves and blooms on an axillary pendant to 60 cm long, densely flowered, cylindrical inflorescence that occurs in the winter/ early spring. It is famous for its use as an hair ornament worn by Assamese women during the spring Bihu folk dance. The plant is an epiphyte growing on tree trunks in open forests or forest margins at 300–1,500m in Bhutan, Cambodia, India, Laos, Nepal and Vietnam. Due to bio-piracy, the plant is on the verge of extinction in India. Rhychostylis retusa is the state flower of Arunachal Pradesh and Assam.
Rhynchostylis, an Orchid species of frequent occurrence is used in various preparations against asthma, tuberculosis, 'nervous twitchings' (possibly tic disorder), cramp, epileptic spasms, vertigo, palpitations, kidney stones and menstrual disorder. The plant has been used to treat wounds, cuts and bruises, as well as an emollient in India and Nepal. Under the name rasna the root is used to treat rheumatism in India.
Gastrodia elata is a saprophytic perennial herb in the Orchidaceae family. It is found in Nepal, Bhutan, Japan, North Korea, Siberia, Mongolia and Tibet at elevations of 3,200m at the edge of forest. The herb is used in Traditional Chinese medicine and is one of the three orchids listed in the earliest known Chinese Materia Medica (c. 100 AD). Medicinally, it is used for 'calming the liver' and for treating headaches, dizziness, tetanus, and epilepsy.

It was remarkably quiet in the forest, as it was now mid morning and many of the birds were sleeping. We spotted a huge termite mound, some 2+ metres tall, up against a tree. Termites are eusocial insects that are classified as Isoptera, or as epifamily Termitoidae within the cockroach order Blattodea. Termites were once classified in a separate order from cockroaches, but recent studies indicate that they evolved from close ancestors of cockroaches during the Jurassic or Triassic. However, the first termites possibly emerged during the Permian or even the Carboniferous. About 3,106 species are currently described, with a few hundred more left to be described. Although these insects are often called "white ants", they are not ants. Like ants and some bees and wasps, termites divide labour among castes consisting of sterile male and female "workers" and "soldiers". All colonies have fertile males called "kings" and one or more fertile females called "queens". Termites mostly feed on dead plant material and cellulose, generally in the form of wood, leaf litter, soil, or animal dung. Termites are major detritivores, particularly in the subtropical and tropical regions, and their recycling of wood and plant matter is of considerable ecological importance. Their colonies range in size from a few hundred to several million individuals. Termite queens have the longest lifespan of any insect in the world, with some queens reportedly living up to 30 to 50 years. Unlike ants, which undergo a complete metamorphosis, each individual termite goes through an incomplete metamorphosis that proceeds through egg, nymph, and adult stages. Colonies are described as superorganisms because the termites form part of a self-regulating entity: the colony itself. Termites are a delicacy in the diet of some human cultures and are used in many traditional medicines. Several hundred species are economically significant as pests that can cause serious damage to buildings, crops, or plantation forests.
Further on our guide stopped to show us a large rhino dung midden, with fungi growing from it. Apparently rhinos like to use the same loo
repeatedly (not just one individual, but all the rhinos in the area). The reason for this seems to be partly for communication (rhinos can tell a lot about the nearby rhinos from their dung) and partly for pest control (more sanitary). As we proceeded we came to a fork in the paths. “Which way?” asked our guide, “towards the rhinos or towards the tigers?” Now we thought this was a joke and decided to choose ‘tigers”; a joke belied not more than 10 minutes later when he pointed out a deep and recent very large pawprint. “Ah, yes...but rhinos are dangerous too,” was his justification. This turned out to be apocryphal as we later discovered that the same day the chief guide had been run through with a rhino’s horn and was critical in hospital. He was fine in the end, but it shows even people knowledgeable about the wildlife can be surprised. We detoured down several paths, some with grass taller than us, to find large ponds, swamps and rank waterholes, which is where rhinos like to spend the day half submerged. S (in particular) ended up with some mammoth (mainly through his blood) leeches. Sadly, no luck on the rhinos and after a few hours of this we stopped for a very nice lunch (provided) in a more open area with a convenient log.
Some leeches smelled us and it was fascinating watching them rear up to smell us or actually to sense our heat, then crawl towards us. We decided not to let them on us! Leeches are segmented parasitic or predatory worms in the phylum Annelida and subclass Hirudinea. They are closely related to the oligochaetes, which include earthworms, and like them have soft, muscular, segmented bodies that can lengthen and contract. Both groups are hermaphrodites, but leeches typically have suckers at both ends. The body is relatively solid, and the spacious body cavity found in other annelids, the coelom, is reduced to small channels. The majority of leeches live in freshwater environments. The best-known are hematophagous, attaching themselves to a host with a sucker and feeding on blood, having first secreted the peptide hirudin to prevent the blood from clotting. Behind us was a very large ficus (strangler fig), either a ficus benghalensis (banyan) or ficus virens, which had pretty much killed the host tree.
Bengal tiger tracks, lunch in the jungle; strangler fig, rhino water hole
After another hour or so we came across a hide by the riverbank, and decided on a brief rest, then off again into the sandy part of the jungle, where we came across a pretty (large) red insect and a fat toad, the Kaloula taprobanica. This toad, the Sri Lankan painted frog/ bullfrog or just painted frog is a common species of narrow-mouthed frog, some 75mm long, found in Nepal, Bangladesh, India and Sri Lanka up to 1,300 m. It is a fossorial species, spending the day buried in the leaf litter, loose soil or under fallen logs, but can also climb into the branches of trees. It prefers dry forests, coconut and rubber plantations, wetlands, and rice fields. The red insect turned out to be a Red Cotton Bug or Stainer (Dysdercus) in the family Pyrrhocoridae.
They can be readily distinguished from most other genera of Pyrrhocoridae by the strong white markings at the junction of the head and thorax, and along the sides of the thorax, and often abdomen.

Then, back down through the grasses (where we got a bit lost) and finally found the river bank again. Opposite we were lucky to see a gharial sunning herself on the sandy bank.
Gharial The gharial (Gavialis gangeticus), also known as the gavial, and fish-eating crocodile is a crocodilian in the family Gavialidae, and is native to the northern part of the Indian subcontinent. The global wild gharial population is estimated at fewer than 235 individuals, which are threatened by loss of riverine habitat, depletion of fish resources, and entanglement in fishing nets. As the population has declined drastically since the 1930s, the gharial is listed as Critically Endangered on the IUCN Red List. It once inhabited all the major river systems of the Indian subcontinent, from the Indus River in the west to the Irrawaddy River in the east. Its distribution is now limited to only 2% of its historical range. It inhabit foremost flowing rivers with high sandbanks that it uses for basking and building nests. Adults mate in the cold season. The young hatch before the onset of the monsoon. The gharial is one of the longest of all living crocodilians, with a body length of 350-450 cms. Male gharials reach a body length of up to 600 cm and have a distinctive boss at the end of the snout, which resembles an earthenware pot known in Hindi as as ghara. The gharial's common name is derived from this similarity. With 110 sharp interdigitated teeth in a long thin snout, it is well adapted to catching its main prey, fish. The gharial’s body is yellowish-white, its neck long and thick. There are 2 rows of ridges down its back. Male gharials develop a hollow bulbous nasal protuberance at the tip of the snout at maturity; it starts growing around age 11/12 and reaches 5x6.3.5 cm at an age of 15.5 years, and enables the males to emit a hissing sound that can be heard at a distance of 75 m. It resembles an earthen pot known locally as "ghara". The nasal growth is apparently used to indicate sexual maturity, as sound resonator when bubbling under water or other sexual behaviours. The gharial is the only living crocodilian with such visible sexual dimorphism. The gharial's snout is very long and narrow, with 27-29 upper and 25-26 lower teeth on each side. The front teeth are the largest. The first, second, and third mandibular teeth fit into notches in the upper jaw. The snout is dilated at the end. It becomes proportionally thicker with age. This long snout is considered an adaptation to a primarily piscivorous diet. The long, needle-like teeth are individually socketed. The tail is well-developed and laterally flattened. Together with the webbed feet it provides tremendous manoeuvrability in deep water. On land, a gharial can only slide on its belly and push itself forward. In Nepal, small populations are present and slowly recovering in tributaries of the Ganges, such as the Narayani-Rapti river system in Chitwan National Park. The gharial is the most thoroughly aquatic of the living crocodilians. Young gharials move forward by pushing the diagonally opposite legs synchronously, whereby the hind feet step close to where the front feet were. At a young age, they can also gallop in emergency situations. When they reach a weight of about 1.5 kg their locomotion changes to pushing forward with hind and front legs simultaneously. Adult gharial do not have the ability to walk on land in the semi-upright stance as other crocodilians, but leave the water only for basking close to the water’s edge. When on the beach, they often turn round so to face the water. The gharial is a thermoconformer and seeks to cool down during hot times and to warm up when ambient temperature is cool. Gharials bask daily foremost in the mornings, and prefer sandy and moist beaches. They change their basking pattern with increasing daily temperatures, and start basking earlier in the mornings, move back into the river when it is hot, and return to the beach later in the afternoon.
The gharial is efficient and well adapted at hunting fish underwater, because of its sharp interdigitated teeth and long narrow snout that meets little resistance in the water. Juvenile gharials jerk their heads back to manoeuvre fish into their gullets, sliding them in head first. Young gharials feed on insects, tadpoles, small fish and frogs. Adults also feed on small crustaceans. Remains of Indian softshell turtle (Nilssonia gangetica) was also found in gharial stomachs. They tear apart large fish and pick up and swallow stones as gastroliths, probably to aid digestion or buoyancy. They catch fish by lying in wait for fish to swim by. They herd fish with their bodies against the shore, and stun fish using their underwater jaw clap. They do not chew their prey, but swallow it whole. Young gharials hatch in July just before the onset of the rainy season. Their sex is determined by temperature. Females dig up the hatchlings in response to hatching chirps, but do not assist them to reach the water. The gharial is sympatric with the mugger crocodile (Crocodylus palustris). Gharials were killed by fishermen, hunted for skins, trophies and indigenous medicine, and their eggs collected for consumption. Today, the remaining individuals form several fragmented subpopulations. Hunting is no longer considered a significant threat.

Smooth-coated otter is a relatively large otter, 7-11 kg in weight and 59- 64 cm in length, plus a tail 37-43 cm long. It is distinguished from other otter species by its more rounded head, hairless nose and flattened tail. As its name suggests, it has unusually short and sleek fur; dark to reddish brown along the back, while the underside is light brown to almost grey in colour. Smooth-coated otters live across the Himalayan ranges India, Nepal, Bhutan down to the islands of Borneo and Brunei. It occurs in areas where fresh water is plentiful; wetlands, swamps, rivers, lakes, rice paddies. Where it is the only otter species, it lives in any suitable habitat. But where it is sympatric with other otter species, it avoids smaller streams and canals in favour of larger water bodies. The smooth-coated otter is the only living species in the genus Lutrogale. Smooth-coated otters are social and hunt in groups. They are mainly diurnal, and have a short lull in activity during midday. They use scent to communicate within the otter species, and with other animals. Each otter possesses a pair of scent glands at the base of the tail used to mark land or objects near feeding areas (a behaviour called sprainting). They communicate with vocalisations eg whistles, chirps, wails. Fish comprise 70% of their diet, but they also eat reptiles, frogs, insects, crustaceans, and small mammals. Major threats are loss of wetland habitats due to construction of large-scale hydroelectric projects, reclamation of wetlands for agriculture, reduction in prey biomass, poaching, and contamination of waterways by pesticides. In most Asian countries, increased human population, inadequate/ ineffective rural development programmes which do not address the problems of poverty, forcing people to be more dependent on natural resources. Consequently, most waterways do not have adequate prey to sustain otter populations. Increased pesticide use poses a danger to predators feeding on aquatic prey in the area. Otter trapping is prevalent in India, Nepal, and Bangladesh.
At about 5pm we finally emerged at a landing stage where locals waited for the boat taxi to take them across. After a 10 minute wait the boat (a dug out again) took us across to a hut selling beer and ice-cream (heaven sent by this point) before we collected our jeep to drive back to the hotel. We, naturally, changed into swimmers and jumped straight into the cool swimming pool. We had dinner at 18.30, a buffet affair made entirely from food from the jungle. The green leaves had been collected by our guide, so in a way we contributed to our own meal! We had the typical malpuwa (sweet wheat fritter), dahi bara (lentil dumpling topped with savoury gravy of yoghurt, tamarind and spices) and mithais (sweets).

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Chitwan - rhinos and elephants

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October 5th Chitwan, Nepal

Half way through the night we woke up to find our bed was glowing. When we pulled back the covers we discovered a very pretty and very bright glow worm/ firefly! With a torch it didn’t look like much at all; a medium sized brownish beetle, but in the dark its rear glowed on and off a bright green-blue. The Lampyridae are a family of insects in the beetle order Coleoptera. They are winged soft-bodied beetles, commonly called fireflies or lightning bugs for their conspicuous use of bioluminescence. Fireflies produce a "cold light", with no infrared or ultraviolet frequencies. This chemically produced light from the lower abdomen may be yellow, green, or pale red, with wavelengths from 510 to 670 nanometers. Soon after we were woken by monkeys playing on our roof. Then we gave up, which was fine as we had to get up at 5ish for a 5;30 start to our jeep safari.
It was barely dawn as we set out in the jeep and we were easily the first jeep into the forest, which made it most surreal. The mist rose off the land and we were treated to a beautiful sunrise with grasses, rivers and wildlife around. The jeep took a winding path through the park, avoiding other jeep safaris (only 4 are allowed in at any time), through grasses taller than our jeep, over forded streams and open grasslands and down forested gullies. We came across several large herds of deer, co-existing with a peafowl muster (ie.group). These were spotted deer (chtial), and we saw several groups over the morning, including some very cute fawns, almost invisible in the dappled forest. We also saw quite a few sambar, muntjac and hyelaphus deer.
The Chital or Spotted deer, native in the Indian subcontinent is a moderate-sized deer, male chital reach nearly 90 cm and weigh 30–75 kg. The species is sexually dimorphic; males are larger than females, and antlers are present only on males. The upper parts are golden to rufous, completely covered in white spots. The abdomen, rump, throat, insides of legs, ears, and tail are all white. The antlers, three-pronged, are nearly 1 m long. The scientific name is Axis axis, the only member of the axis group. The vernacular chital is from the Hindi c!tal or from the Sanskrit citrala, both of which mean "variegated", ie spotted. Chital are active throughout the day. In the summer, time is spent in rest under shade, and the sun's glare is avoided if the temperature reaches 27 °C; activity peaks as dusk approaches. These deer typically move in a single file on specific tracks, with a distance of two to three times their width between them, when on a journey, typically in search of food and water sources. When cautiously inspecting its vicinity the chital stands motionless and listens with attention. As an antipredator measure, chital flee in groups (unlike the hog deer that disperse on alarm); sprints are followed by hiding in dense undergrowth.
The Sambar (Rusa unicolor) is a large deer native to the Indian subcontinent and listed as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List. Individuals tend to be large, and females are smaller than males. Among all living cervid species, only the moose and the elk can attain larger sizes. The large, rugged antlers fork at the tip, so they have only three tines. They are typically up to 110 cm long. As with most deer, only the males have antlers. Adult males and pregnant/ lactating females possess an unusual hairless, blood-red spot located about half way down the underside of their throats. This sometimes oozes a white liquid, and is apparently glandular in nature. Sambar are nocturnal or crepuscular. The males live alone for much of the year, and the females live in small herds of up to 16 individuals. In some areas, the average herd consists of only 3-4, typically an adult female, her most recent young and a subordinate immature female. This is an unusual for deer, which more commonly live in larger groups. They often congregate near water, and are good swimmers. Like most deer, sambar are generally quiet, although adults can scream or make high pitched sounds when alarmed. However, they more commonly communicate with scent marking or foot stamping.
Hyelaphus or hog deer is a genus of relatively small Asian deer that are overall brown. The three pecies are all threatened. Originally considered a subgenus of Axis, genetic evidence indicates that Hyelaphus is closer to the genus Rusa than Axis. Consequently, Hyelaphus was elevated to genus status, leaving the chital as the only member of Axis.
The Indian muntjac (Munttiacus muntjak
k), or Southern red muntjac and barking deer, is a deer species native to Asia. It has soft brown-grey fur with creamy markings. It is among the smallest deer species. It is an omnivore, eating grass, fuit, shoots, seeds, bird eggs and small animals, and occasionally carrion. It has a barking call when frightened by a predator and hence the common name "barking deer". Males have canines, short antlers that usually branch just once near the base, and a large postorbital scent gland used to mark territories. Females have tufts of fur and small bony knobs instead of antlers. These deer are highly alert. When in a stressful situation or if a predator is sensed, muntjacs begin making a bark like sound. Barking was originally thought of as a means of communication between the deer during mating season, as well as an alert. However, in more recent studies, it has been identified as a mechanism used solely to cause a predator to realise that it has been detected and move elsewhere or to reveal itself. The barking mechanism is used more frequently when visibility is reduced and can last for over an hour for just one incident.

As we drove along our guide suddenly told the driver to stop the car. Two spotted deer, a male and female, stood stock still in front of us looking left. Suddenly we knew why, as a rhinoceros charged across the road not 2 metres away from us. Our first rhino!
One-horned rhino. The Indian rhinoceros (Rhinoceros unicornis), also called the greater one-horned rhinoceros and great Indian rhinoceros, is a rhinoceros native to the Indian subcontinent. It is listed as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List, as populations are fragmented and restricted to less than 20,000 km2. Moreover, the extent and quality of the rhino's most important habitat, alluvial grassland and riverine forest, is considered to be in decline due to human and livestock encroachment. As of 2008, a total of 2,575 mature individuals were estimated to live in the wild. The Indian rhinoceros once ranged throughout the entire stretch of the Indo-Gangetic Plain, but excessive hunting and agricultural development reduced their range drastically to 11 sites in northern India and southern Nepal. In the early 1990s, between 1,870 and 1,895 rhinos were estimated to have been alive. Ancestral rhinoceroses first diverged from other perissodactyls in the Early Eocene. Mitochondrial DNA comparison suggests the ancestors of modern rhinos split from the ancestors of Equidae around 50 million years ago. The extant family, the Rhinocerotidae, first appeared in the Late Eocene in Eurasia, and the ancestors of the extant rhino species dispersed from Asia beginning in the Miocene. Fossils of R. unicornis appear in the Middle Pleistocene. The Indian and Javan rhinoceroses, the only members of the genus Rhinoceros, first appear in the fossil record in Asia around 1.6 million–3.3 million years ago. Although belonging to the genus, Indian and Javan rhinoceroses are not closely related to other rhino species. Different studies have hypothesized that they may be closely related to the extinct Gaindatherium or Punjabitherium. A detailed cladistic analysis of the Rhinocerotidae placed Rhinoceros and the extinct Punjabitherium in a clade with Dicerorhinus, the Sumatran rhinoceros. The Indian rhinoceros has a thick grey-brown skin with pinkish skin folds and a black horn. Its upper legs and shoulders are covered in wart-like bumps. It has very little body hair, aside from eyelashes, ear fringes and tail brush. Males have huge neck folds. Its skull is heavy with a basal length above 60 cm and an occiput above 19 cm. Its nasal horn is slightly back-curved with a base of about 18.5cm by 12 cm that rapidly narrows until a smooth, even stem part begins at about 55mm above the base. The rhino's single horn is present in both males and females. The black horn is pure keratin, like human fingernails, and starts to show after about six years. In most adults, the horn reaches a length of about 25 cm but has been recorded up to 36 cm in length and weight 3.051 kg. Among terrestrial land mammals native to Asia, the Indian rhinoceros is second in size only to the Asian elephant. It is also the second-largest living rhinoceros, behind only the white rhinoceros. Adult male Indian rhinos are usually solitary.
Groups consist of females with calves, or of up to six subadults. Such groups congregate at wallows and grazing areas. They are foremost active in early mornings, late afternoons and at night, but rest during hot days. They are excellent swimmers and can run at speeds of up to 55 km/h for short periods. They have excellent senses of hearing and smell, but relatively poor eyesight. Over 10 distinct vocalisations have been recorded. Males have home ranges of around 2 to 8 km2 that overlap each other. Dominant males tolerate males passing through their territories except when they are in mating season, when dangerous fights break out. Indian rhinos bathe regularly. The folds in their skin trap water and hold it even when they come back on land. Indian rhinos have few natural enemies, except for tigers, which sometimes kill unguarded calves, but adult rhinos are less vulnerable due to their size. Indian rhinoceros are grazers. Their diets consist almost entirely of grasses, but they also eat leaves, branches of shrubs and trees, fruits, and submerged and floating aquatic plants. They feed in the mornings and evenings. They use their semi-prehensile lips to grasp grass stems, bend the stem down, bite off the top, and then eat the grass. They tackle very tall grasses or saplings by walking over the plant, with legs on both sides and using the weight of their bodies to push the end of the plant down to the level of the mouth. Mothers also use this technique to make food edible for their calves. They drink for a minute or two at a time, often imbibing water filled with rhinoceros urine. In addition to noises, the rhino uses olfactory communication. Adult males urinate backwards, as far as 3–4 m behind them, often in response to being disturbed by observers. Like all rhinos, the Indian rhinoceros often defecates near other large dung piles. The Indian rhino has pedal scent glands which are used to mark their presence at these rhino latrines.

As we drove around we started to see more birds, including the ubiquitous treepies, as well as some more interesting Blue-tailed bee-eaters and Nuthatches. We saw more monkeys in the trees, and suddenly I spotted a wild boar which quickly dived into the undergrowth.
Wild Boar (Sus scrofa) DNA studies indicate that the wild boar originated from islands in Southeast Asia such as Indonesia, and subsequently spread onto mainland Eurasia and North Africa. The earliest fossil finds come from both Europe and Asia, and date back to the Early Pleistocene. By the late Villafranchian, S. scrofa largely displaced the related S. strozzii, a large, possibly swamp-adapted suid ancestral to the modern S. verrucosus throughout the Eurasian mainland.
The Blue-tailed bee-eater (Merops philippinus) is a near passerine bird in the bee-eater family Meropidae. It breeds in southeastern Asia. It is strongly migratory, seen in much of peninsular India. This species is sometimes considered to be conspecific with the blue-cheeked bee-eater. Like other bee- eaters, is a richly coloured, slender bird, predominantly green; its face has a narrow blue patch with a black eye stripe, and a yellow and brown throat; the tail is blue and the beak is black. It can reach a length of 23–26 cm, including the two elongated central tail feathers. Sexes are alike. This bird breeds in sub-tropical open country, such as parks or ricefields. It is most often seen near large water bodies. Like other bee-eaters it predominantly eats insects, especially bees, wasps and hornets, which are caught in the air by sorties from an open perch. It probably takes bees and dragonflies in roughly equal numbers. The insects that are caught are beaten on the perch to kill and break the exoskeleton, a habit is seen in many other members of the coraciiformes order. These bee-eaters are gregarious, nesting colonially in sandy banks or open flat areas. They make a relatively long tunnel in which the 5 to 7 spherical white eggs are laid. Both the male and the female take care of the eggs. These birds also feed and roost communally.
As we neared the river once more, we stopped as our guide spotted a large rhino half submerged by the opposite bank. After a while we drove on so other groups could observe it, stopping at a central point to buy a drink. As we headed back out we saw more spotted deer, and then a lucky find, the endangered Indian Grey Mongoose, a mother with three babies!
The Indian grey mongoose or common grey mongoose (Herpestes edwardsi) is a mongoose species mainly found in West Asia and on the Indian subcontinent. In North Indian languages (Hindi/Punjabi) it is called Nevlaa. The grey mongoose is commonly found in open forests, scrublands and cultivated fields, in burrows, hedgerows and thickets, among groves of trees, and takes shelter under rocks or bushes and even in drains. It is very bold and inquisitive but wary, seldom venturing far from cover. It climbs very well. Usually found singly or in pairs, it preys on rodents, snakes, birds’ eggs and hatchlings, lizards and variety of invertebrates. It occasionally feeds on gharial eggs. It breeds throughout the year.The Indian grey mongoose is omnivorous, though most of its diet is made up from live prey it catches from being an opportunistic hunter, with mice, rats, lizards, snakes, and beetles making up the bulk. Also eaten are ground birds, their eggs, grasshoppers, scorpions, centipedes, frogs, crabs, fish, and parts of plants: fruits, berries, and roots, as well as larger prey including hares and egrets. It kills prey by delivering a bite to the neck or head. This species is known for its ability to combat venomous snakes. It primarily achieves this through tiring the snake out, by enticing it to make multiple strikes which it acrobatically avoids. Secondary protection against the venomous bite includes the stiff rigid hair, which is excited at such times, the thick loose skin and specialised acetylcholine receptors render it resistant or immune to snake venom. When dealing with scorpions, no measures are taken to disable the sting, and they are picked up in any manner. The Indian grey mongoose typically opens eggs by holding them between the paws and biting a hole in the little end. Smaller mongooses typically open eggs by throwing them between their legs against a hard object.

Heading back to the lodge we saw the working elephants replete with their cargo of wood. Finally, our breakfast at all of 9am! After a brief rest until 10.30, when we walked to the elephant bathing area. Great fun!
The Indian elephant (Elephas maximus indicus) is one of three subspecies of the Asian elephant. Since 1986, the Asian elephant has been listed as Endangered as the wild population has declined by at least 50%. The Asian elephant is threatened by habitat loss, degradation and fragmentation. Asian elephants are smaller than African elephants and have the highest body point on the head. The tip of their trunk has one finger-like process. Their back is convex or level. Indian elephants reach 2-3.5 m, weigh 2,000-5,000 kg, and have 19 pairs of ribs. Their skin is lighter with small patches of depigmentation. Females are usually smaller than males, and have short or no tusks. Indian elephants have smaller ears, but relatively broader skulls and larger trunks than African elephants. Toes are large and broad. The Indian elephant is native to mainland Asia: India, Nepal, Bhutan, down to Cambodia, and Vietnam. It inhabits grasslands, dry deciduous, moist deciduous, evergreen and semi-evergreen forests. Elephant corridors have been established across Nepal-India-Bhutan. Elephants are classified as megaherbivores and consume up to 150 kg of plant matter per day. They are generalist feeders, both grazing and browsing, feeding on 100+ different plant species, most commonly legume, palm, sedge and true grass families.
We really enjoyed this, even down to feeding the elephants with whole bananas (they LOVED this). Then we went back to the lodge and decided to have a stroll into the town-village, which was not even 10 minutes down the road. After a pleasant retail trip (not much to buy- just a T-shirt, but REALLY friendly people and children), we had a big ice-cream and strolled back for lunch and a bit of down time.

At 16.30 we met up with a friendly Dutch couple to walk into the town and down to the river for sunset. On our way our guide took us into the Tharu part of the village where we met a local family living fairly traditionally, and learnt a bit more about their culture.
Some Tharu live in longhouses, which may hold up to 150 people. The longhouses are built of mud with lattice walls. They grow barley, wheat, maize, and rice, as well as raise animals such as chickens, ducks, pigs, and goats. In the big rivers, they use large nets to fish. Most Tharu households own a statue of a traditional god. Family members often offer animal's blood sacrifices to appease the god. Animals such as pigeons and chickens are used for sacrificial purposes. Milk and silk cloth are also used. Many Tharu would also use the blood of one of the male members in the family for such rituals. Such rituals are conducted through ceremonies, and superficial cuts are made forehead, arms, throat, legs, and/or chest. Because the Tharu lived in isolation in malarial swamps until the recent use of DDT, they developed a style of decorating the walls, rice containers and other objects in their environment. The Tharu women transform outer walls and verandahs of their homes into colorful paintings said to be dedicated to Lakshmi, the Hindu goddess of prosperity and fertility. Genetic resistance to malaria suggests that Tharu were already living in the Terai before Indo-Europeans arrived, raising the question what they may have been speaking at the time. Nevertheless if any linguistic features survive from that era, they have not been documented. Traditional Tharu worship various gods in the form of animals such as dogs, crow, ox and cows. Such gods are seen in Hinduism. Every village has their own deity, commonly known as Bhuinyar. Tharu in East Nepal call their deity Gor- raja. The gods are believed to have the ability to heal diseases and sickness. According to traditional legend, gods are given a bhakal, a promise of something, on condition that the sickness is cured, in any events of misfortunes, plagues and horror dreams. A relative's death is an event of great significance among Tharu, and rituals conducted varies in accordance to regions.
Then on to the river. We spotted yet more gharial (if you lived here you would have no idea they were critically endangered), a few more crocos and lots of roosting birds, including the famous hornbills. After a pleasant riverbank walk we ended at a cafe on the riverbank where we grabbed some beers and enjoyed watching the sunset. We strolled back under our own resources for dinner at 19.00.
The hornbills (Bucerotidae) are a family of birds in tropical/ subtropical Africa and Asia, characterised by a long, down-curved bill, frequently brightly coloured and sometimes with a casque on the upper mandible. Both the English and scientific name refer to the shape of the bill, buceros is cow horn in Greek. Hornbills have a two-lobed kidney. They are the only birds in which the 1st and 2nd neck vertebrae are fused together, to make a stable platform for carrying the bill. They are omnivorous, feeding on fruit and small animals. They nest in natural cavities in trees and sometimes cliffs. Hornbills show considerable variation in size, ranging from the black dwarf hornbill at 102g and 30cm long, to the great hornbill at up to 4kg and 1.2m long. The most distinctive feature of the hornbills is the heavy bill. The large bill assists in fighting, preening, nest construction, and catching prey. A feature unique to the hornbills is the casque, a hollow structure that runs along the upper mandible. In some species it is barely perceptible and appears to serve no function beyond reinforcing the bill. In other it is quite large, reinforced with bone, and has openings between the hollow centre, allowing it to serve as a resonator for calls. Aerial casque-butting has also been reported in the great hornbill. The plumage of hornbills is typically black, grey, white, or brown, frequently offset by bright colours on the bill. Hornbills bills intrude on their visual field. This allows them to see their own bill tip and aids in precision handling of food. The eyes are protected by large eyelashes which act as a sunshade. When a female is ready to lay eggs, the nest entrance is just large enough for her to enter, and then is almost sealed shut with one narrow aperture, big enough for the male to transfer food to the mother and chicks. This is apparently related to protecting the nesting site from rival hornbills.


Posted by PetersF 14:56 Archived in Nepal Tagged elephant nepal rhino chitwan mongoose Comments (0)

Chitwan to Kathmandu

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October 6th Chitwan, Kathmandu

We were woken early again by the monkeys clattering over our roof, but by the time we’d got up they had gone, to be replaced by some beautiful birds and butterflies. We headed for a lazy breakfast before commencing our drive to Kathmandu (which was surprisingly non-trafficy and we arrived at a reasonable time).
Some fauna
Although we didn’t see these (well, we saw some), they are resident in the park.
A tiny mammal called the hispid hare may have just won the world’s longest game of hide and seek. We did see this, but it was running at great speed, hence no photo! Native to South Asia, these shy animals haven’t been spotted in Chitwan Park since 1984. For the past decade, conservationists were convinced they’d gone extinct in the area.
The sloth bear is an insectivorous bear native to the Indian subcontinent. No, sadly, we did not see this. It is listed as Vulnerable. It has been called labiated bear because of its long lower lip and palate used for sucking insects. Compared to brown and black bears, the sloth bear is lankier, has a long, shaggy fur and a mane around the face, and long, sickle-shaped claws. It evolved from the ancestral brown bear during the Pleistocene and through convergent evolution shares features found in insect- eating mammals. Sloth bears feed on termites, honeybee colonies, and fruits. Sloth bears sometimes attack humans who encroach on their territories. Humans have reduced their habitat and diminished their population by hunting them for food and products (from their bacula and claws), or even as performing animals.a286a440-dda4-11eb-8b9f-6d0f241828f9.jpg
The clouded leopard (Neofelis nebulosa) or “cloudies” is a wild cat occurring from the Himalayan foothills to China. Yep, it would have been AMAZING to see this, but there are only 1 or 2 in the area, so pretty unlikely, and they prefer higher altitudes anyway (see Bhutan entry). It is listed as Vulnerable. Its total population is suspected fewer than 10,000 mature individuals, and no single population numbering more 1000. It is also known as the mainland clouded leopard, to distinguish it from the Sunda clouded leopard. The clouded leopard is considered an evolutionary link betwen the Pantherinae and the small cats. It represents the smallest of the big cats, but despite its name, is not closely related to the leopard. It is part of the lineage that comprises Panthera (tiger, leopard, jaguar, lion, snow leopard) and Neofelis (clouded leopard). Neofelis is thought to have diverged first from Panthera. Its hyoid bone is ossified, making it possible to purr (like domestic cats, to whom it is related). In fact only
this group of cats can purr (ie the lion/tiger/jaguar group can’t), whilst only the big cats can roar (ie. cloudies and tabbies can’t). Melanistic clouded leopards are uncommon. It has short limbs compared to other big cats. Its hind limbs are longer than its front for increased jumping and leaping capabilities. Its ulnae and radii are not fused, giving a greater range of motion when climbing trees. In Nepal, the clouded leopard was thought to be extinct, but in 1988, four individuals were found in Chitwan National Park and Pokhara Valley. It is the most talented climber among the cats; they can climb down vertical tree trunks head first, and hang on to branches with their hind paws bent around branches. They can hang down from branches by bending their hind paws and their tail around them. When jumping down, they hang on to a branch until the very last moment.
The gaur (Bos gaurus), or Indian bison, is the largest bovine. We saw these in the fields as we were leaving, but had packed our cameras, so just enjoyed watching for a change. This species is native to Asia. It has been listed as Vulnerable but population trends are rebuilding. The gaur is the tallest of wild cattle species. It is a strong and massively built species with a high convex ridge on the forehead between the horns. There is a prominent ridge on the back. The ears are very large; the tail short, and in old bulls the hair is very thin on the back. They have a distinct ridge running from the shoulders to the middle of the back, caused by the great length of the spine’s vertebrae at the fore-part of the trunk as compared with those of the loins. The hair is short, fine and glossy; the hooves are narrow and pointed. Gaurs do not have a dewlap on the throat and chest. Both sexes have horns up to 115 cm. Between the horns is a high convex ridge on the forehead. Gaurs are among the largest living land animals. Only elephants, rhinos, hippopotami and giraffe are heavier. In Bhutan, they live in the southern foothills. In Nepal, the gaur population is c500, with the majority in Chitwan National Park.
The Irrawaddy or hoary-bellied Himalayan squirrel (Callosciurus pygerythrus) is a species of rodent in the family Sciuridae. It is found in Bangladesh, China, India, and Nepal, where we saw it in the forest trees. The particoloured flying squirrel (Hylopetes alboniger) is in the family Sciuridae. It is found in Bangladesh, Bhutan, Nepal down to Cambodia and Vietnam. Its natural habitat is subtropical or tropical dry forests. It is threatened by habitat loss.
The white-winged duck or white-winged wood duck, seen by us over several days, is a large species of duck, formerly in the genus Cairina and allied with the dabbling ducks. However, DNA sequence analysis indicate that the anatomical similarity to the Muscovy duck is deceiving, and this species might more appropriately be placed in a monotypic genus, as Asarcornis scutulata, unrelated to the Muscovy duck but closer to the diving ducks.

Posted by PetersF 15:28 Archived in Nepal Tagged animals nepal chitwan Comments (0)

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